Buon Ferragosto
Discover more from Shaking Out The Tablecloth
I am writing to you from the shores of Kennebunk, Maine where I am attempting to take an elusive summer vacation - something I have not done since starting my business 10 years ago. An actual break during the busiest month of the year for my business - In my mind this seemed impossible and almost irresponsible. However I am striving to be gentler on myself and making time for rest and reflection was prudent. this time away could only be possible with the the help of my team - I am lucky to have an exceptionally capable group of women to manage the shop in my absence.
So why Maine? My fiancé introduced me to his favourite summer escape, Kennebunk, a place he has summered in for 20+ years. This beautiful small coastal town is proving to be both serene and energizing. I’m easing through each day - early morning reading on the beach (book recommendations at the bottom), cooking, walks into the village and unhurried evenings doing puzzles, chatting on the porch and perhaps most importantly - sleeping. The salt water air and the soothing susurration is the best natural sedative - sleep here is deep.
The Italians view August as the month of rest and replenishment, closing up shop and leaving work behind to breath new air. They are masters at celebrating this time - Ferragosto - time away (doesn’t have to be far - typically the seaside but countryside is equally lovely), good food, sunshine, quiet moments, friends and family and the real “dolce far niente”. I have always wanted to actively engage in my own version of Ferragosto here at home - not since living in Italy have I been able to do so. My business can’t shutter its doors for the whole month. August is too important a month in my community. So, two weeks away will do just fine while my team expertly handles the day to day. For this, I am very grateful and will make the most of it.
I have included a few recipes for you below as well as a guide to Puglia, fittingly, as many Italians head to the seaside for August. Tomatoes are coming into their full flavour right now and I will be including a few recipes next month that feature them. For now, I will post photos to my Instagram (@enid_grace) of the positively excessive amount of tomato sandwiches I am eating everyday!
The podcast will be released when I return in September!
THE FOOD
August is a plentiful month and I have been greedily eating up all the melon, sweet corn, beets and early tomatoes. Lots of salads from the garden and stops at the farm stands to make simple dinners at home. Here in Maine, I have been enjoying seafood aplenty as well as melon and wild blueberries. A lobster/clam bake is imminent. The tomato sandwiches are daily - as there is a local farm stand just minutes away with early tomatoes by the bushel. I will post my version of the perfect tomato sandwich on IG (@enid_grace).
I’ve included a quick Trapanese pesto from Sicily using the first of my baby heirloom tomatoes fresh off the vine. A Salad with Sweet Corn and Radishes, the simplest Prosciutto e Melone (an ideal breakfast in my opinion) and a delicious Peach and Basil Pie. Make them all together and you have beautiful summer lunch to enjoy with friends and family - hopefully outside in the sunshine.
Pesto alla Trapanese
Serves 2
1-2 Cloves of Garlic
Pinch of Sea Salt
Pinch (or more) Pepperoncino
Fresh Ground Black Pepper
25-30 Grams Whole Almonds
Small Handful of Fresh Basil Leaves (mix in fresh parsley too if you like)
8-10 Cherry Tomatoes, stems removed
20-25 Grams Freshly Grated Pecorino
55-60 ml Best Quality Olive Oil
250 Grams Short Pasta - Casarecce or Fusilli
I like to use a pestle and mortar for this sauce - especially just for two people, but you can certainly use a food processor - just be sure to pulse, not purée.
Boil a large pot of salted water and cook the pasta al dente. While the pasta is cooking, break down the garlic with the salt in the mortar using the pestle. Add in the pepperoncino and black pepper and stir. Add the almonds and carefully crush them into a crumble. Add the basil and pound and stir (gently) to break down the leaves. Add the tomatoes and crush them with the pestle (watch for spurting seeds!). Add the pecorino and stir to combine. Slowly add in the olive oil to create a loose pesto sauce. Pour the pesto over the cooked pasta with a splash of the hot pasta pasta water and toss to combine.
Grilled Corn & Radish Salad
Serves 2
1 Jalapeño Sliced in Half Lengthwise (seeds removed if desired)
1/2 Red Onion, Quartered - Root End Kept In Tact
Olive Oil for Drizzling
8-9 Fresh Radishes, cleaned and halved (or quartered depending on size)
1 Tbsp Salted Butter
Salt and Pepper
2-3 Ears Fresh Sweet Corn, Shucked
Handful of Pepitas (Pumpkin Seeds)
2 Small Heads of Baby Gem or Other Small Crisp Lettuce
Dressing
100 Grams Thick Yoghurt or Labneh
Juice of 1 Lime
A Few Pinches each of Smoked Paprika and Cumin
Salt and Pepper
50-60 Grams Blue Cheese
Heat your grill. Drizzle the onion and jalapeño with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. In a grill safe pan, place the butter and sliced radishes, season with salt and pepper. Place the pan of radishes on the grill as well as the onion pieces, jalapeño and corn. Cook for 7-10 minutes over medium low flame until the corn, onions and jalapeño are lightly charred and softened and the radishes are slightly browned and fork tender.
For the dressing, combine all the ingredients in a bowl along with a few splashes of water to loosen and whisk to combine - it will be a little textured (lumpy) due to the blue cheese.
Assemble your salad by arranging the lettuce leaves on the bottom. Top with the slivers of grilled onion. Chop the jalapeño into smaller pieces and remove the corn kernels from the cob with a sharp knife. Add the radishes, pumpkin seeds and spoon over the dressing. Season with a sprinkle of flakey salt to finish.
Prosciutto e Melone
Serves 2-3 (with half a melon)
Ancient Romans believed that this simple combination could cure what ails you and boost your immune system - I make no such claims here! But I can assure there is a certain bliss that comes from biting into this combination of salty, sweet and juicy.
A full recipe isn’t really required here, simply assemble this dish using the best ingredients possible - ripe sweet melon, thinly sliced prosciutto crudo and superb aged balsamic. A final sprinkle of flakey salt adds the finishing touch.
Peach & Basil Pie
Serves 2-6 (Two small pies or One 8 - Inch)
Filling
4-5 Ripe Peaches Halved, Stone removed and Quartered
10-12 Leaves Fresh Basil, Torn
100 Grams White Sugar
Zest of One Orange or Clementine
1 Tsp Vanilla
2 Tbsp Cornstarch
Pastry
250 Grams All Purpose or “00” Flour
50 Grams White Sugar
Pinch of Salt
125 Grams Cold Unsalted Butter
2-3 Tbsp Cold Water (as needed)
Place the peaches, basil, sugar, zest, vanilla and cornstarch in a bowl. Stir to combine and set aside to macerate for about an hour.
To make the pastry dough place the flour, sugar, salt and cold butter in a bowl and quickly blend with your fingers to break the butter into small pea-size pieces (this can be done in a food processor as well). Slowly add some cold water and blend until you have a dough that just holds together when squeezed (see video). Wrap dough in plastic wrap to form a disc and chill for an hour.
Preheat oven to 350.
Roll out your dough on a lightly-floured surface. You will need a bit more than half the dough for the base(s) and the remaining is for the top crust(s). Cut the dough into circles if using the mini pie tins.
Quickly press the dough into the pie shell, leaving a bit of overhang. Chill the dough if its getting too warm or sticky. Place your peach filling in the bottom crust evenly. Top with the remaining dough and pinch to seal the top and bottom crust. Remove any excess overhang with a sharp knife. Pinch/crimp the edges to seal and create a vent in the top crust.
Brush with egg wash (egg yolk mixed with water or cream). Sprinkle with coarse sugar if desired and bake for 50-60 minutes on the lower rack. The crust should be golden brown. Serve with cold creme fraiche or vanilla gelato.
TRAVEL GUIDE
Italy is certainly a country that is of great significance to me and I love to travel throughout the regions, exploring the smaller towns and villages and learning the local foods and history. With respect to Ferragosto, I offer this simple guide to the perfect seaside region - Puglia.
Although I travelled to Puglia in late October early November, the weather was still warm, the crowds were minimal and there were delicious things still in season - including puntarelle, a personal favourite. Puglia is part of South Italy and its extraordinary coastline is beautiful anytime of year. The food is rustic and simple and epitomises the “cucina povera” that I adore. There are many towns to visit but for this simple guide I note Lecce, Alberbello and Bari with a quick tip to take a quick trip farther inland to Altamura. I suggest seeking out Agritourismos and family run bed and breakfasts as well - they are my preference most often but I have provided some great hotels below.
SLEEP
Lecce
Palazzo Bozzi Corso - Circa 1775 elegant palazzo in an excellent area just steps to the Basilica of Santa Croce. Beautiful accommodation that blends the old and the new.
Patria Palace Hotel - A refined accommodation in the heart of Lecce with a stunning rooftop vista. Enjoy a drink in the evening overlooking the incredible architecture of the city. Traditional entwined with contemporary Italian design and all the amenities.
Alberobello
This is where you want to seek out the traditional Trulli houses - they are so unique and it’s a beautiful site to walk through Alberobello. Small white stone homes with their slate grey conical roofs pierce the skyline. I offer a superb recommendation here but there are many private Trulli rentals as well.
La Corte della Astore - Absolutely stunning farm property located just a short 5 minute walk to the centre of town. Turtles, horses, birds, emu, pigs and more roam the property. A delicious Italian colazione awaits in the morning.
Bari
If you can, try and stay in Bari’s Old Town (Bari Vecchia)- there is far more charm and ambiance (and no cars!) and you are only a short walk to the seaside.
Both of these options are run like apartment rentals, not formal inns or hotels.
EAT
Many incredible options - from rustic comforting pastas to the freshest seafood straight off the boat in Bari. One of my favourite dishes is Fave e Cicoria (fava beans with wild chicory) and Puglia does this best. Not to be outdone by the handmade Orecchiette Cacioricotta, Ciceri e Trio, custardy Pasticciotto, mouthwatering panzarotti fritti and Mozzarella in Carrozza and the very regional Assassina pasta (famous to one restaurant in Bari).
Here are a few of the many options.
In Lecce - Trattoria Nonna Tetti ( for Ciceri e Trio) and Cafe Alvino (for Pasticiotto)
In Alberobello - La Cantina Alberobello
In Bari - Rosticceria Dirello (for panzarotti), Al Sorso Preferito (for Pasta Assassina and Mozzarella in Carozza), La Uascezze
Also special to Bari is the Strada Delle Orecchiette. Women hand making fresh orecchiette pasta from the top of the street to the bottom. If you visit Le Orecchiette di Nunzia she may just make you a plate of her fresh pasta and sauce right inside her kitchen off the street.
LOOK AROUND
There is a plethora of beauty to be seen throughout Puglia. The rugged seashores with azure waters, ancient buildings, the unique trulli and lots of countryside in between. A great side trip inland to Altamura is well worth your time. The famous Altamura bread must be tried and it is particularly good with any of the cheeses from Caseificio Dicecca. If you have the time book at visit to Baby Dicecca for a unique farm experience.
INSPIRATIONS
LOCAL BUSINESS
Sunday’s Company Apothecary A beautiful in store experience awaits, if you can visit (if not just take a peek at her most serene Instagram account and order online). Handmade essential skincare and personal products from the brilliant Italian goddess, Melissa Condotta. Her shop in the hills of Northumberland County (Warkworth) is well worth the drive (less than an hour from PEC). I have been using several of her products for a few years now. I highly recommend the Eucalyptus Body Soak, the Cedar and Bergamot Body Oil, the Decongesting Steam and the Hair/Scalp Oil. Visit her website here and her Instagram account @sundayscompany
WHO I’M FOLLOWING
As I am in Maine, I am making a special trip to Freedom this week to visit The Lost Kitchen - just the farmers market and shop at the Mill however, as sadly my postcard wasn’t picked this year for a reservation - there is always next year! If you are unfamiliar with Erin French, she has an inspiring story and she and her team run The Lost Kitchen in Freedom. I recommend reading her book, Finding Freedom - I couldn’t put it down. Discover Erin and The Lost Kitchen @thelostkitchen
WHAT I’M READING
Lots of time has and will be spent reading during this time of rest. In addition to the two dozen magazines I schlepped from the newsstand I will also dive into National Dish by Anya Von Bremzen. I picked up a couple of books at the little book shop in Kennebunkport (Fine Print Books) including Jane Austen - A Life - by Claire Tomalin. As a nod to Erin French I also brought along my copy of The Lost Kitchen Cookbook for some seasonal Maine cooking inspiration.
WHAT I’M WATCHING
We Feed People is a riveting documentary by Ron Howard that chronicles the work of Chef José Andrés and The World Central Kitchen.
Season 2 of The Bear. I am still captivated and very much rooting for Richie this season. Episode 7 - Forks was so so good, with the guest appearance by Olivia Coleman - amazing!
WHAT I’M LISTENING TO
For a deep dive into unusual and fascinating food stories check out Milk Street Radio - I think I know a lot about food, but listening to this podcast always teaches me something new.
QUESTION OF THE MONTH
What is your favourite seasonal summer ingredient?
I have to pick just one? I can’t! Tomatoes and peaches - I pine for local tomatoes and peaches all year long. For a short window of about 4-7 weeks the flavour is transcendent. As mentioned above I would happily eat a tomato sandwich each and every day during the season. And a ripe juicy peach - heaven.
NEXT MONTH
More Recipes Including lots of tomatoes!
A mini guide to Maine
Thanksgiving Ideas (my favourite holiday)