*Just prior to the launch of the first newsletter, my lovely Mum passed away. This first issue is delivered in her memory - Mary Anne Stewart August 24, 1949 - April 28, 2023*
Much like the arrival of Spring - this first issue is long overdue.
I am often asked about my life, particularly outside of running my business - Piccolina. There is certainly a lot of cooking, travelling and wandering. Life can appear rather romantic running a small Italian market in bucolic rural Canada but as is often true of everyday life - the behind the scenes is rather hectic and sometimes a mess. No matter how successful, running your own business is challenging - staff, vendors, a litany of never ending bills, ebbs and flows of customers. Finding time to be creative outside of those responsibilities is equally difficult. Time evaporates. Most free time is spent recharging mentally while eagerly making notes about all the other creative projects I want to dive into - but never finding the right time or focus to actually do it. Until now.
The time has finally come to balance the two. Maintain my role as owner and operator of Piccolina Mercato AND find space to do more of the other - write, create, share, indulge, eat, travel and perhaps even sleep more!
This monthly newsletter will provide a space for that - well, most of it!
From my little village in rural Ontario and from travels along the way, I will share a more personal side - stories, recipes, food and travel guides, inspirations, culinary videos and tours. Will I still be part of the daily rhythm of Piccolina? Absolutely! But this newsletter is where you can get to know me better.
I have launched a refreshed Enid Grace website in addition to my Substack page - visit enidgrace.com - especially if you are curious to understand a little more about who I am.
A podcast is also on its way! “Everything on the Table with Enid Grace” will be available soon - details in next months newsletter.
What does Shaking Out the Tablecloth mean you may ask?
While living in Europe I took notice that for every meal, including breakfast, the table would be set - always with a tablecloth. The cloths were mostly old, embroidered family hand-me-downs that were a little tattered but well loved. The “fancy ones” were brought out for special occasions. Everyone would gather around the table (rarely an exception obliged). Conversation was alive and vibrant around the table. Discussing plans for the day, sharing stories both exceptional and banal, exchanging trivial grievances, offering brilliant anecdotes, debating and prattling on about everything in between.
These experiences, particularly in Italy, showed me an interactive and often enchanting table culture. Talking was very much encouraged. Enthusiastic hand gestures, honest discourse and all the village gossip was laid bare. Sides were taken over the minutia of everyday life - which local bar serves the best espresso? The eggplant grown on this side of the river is superior to the opposite side and how dare you suggest otherwise. At the same table truths were admitted, romantic gestures were observed and aggravations were (temporarily) stifled. Advice came from every chair and at the end of the meal you felt full - satiated in every way.
Once the plates were cleared the tablecloth would be gathered, pulling each corner together to ensure the crumbs left behind didn’t flutter to the ground. It was taken outside and shook clean in the open air - and with it all the stories, laughter and debate of the day went into the wind. The cloth was refolded and put away until the next meal.
Every time the tablecloth is laid, its not just a new meal to enjoy but also an opportunity for new stories, rehashed squabbles, flirty glances, sage advice and laughter, always laughter.
Each month I will share with you, around the table so to speak, and then shake out the tablecloth. Next month - a whole new collection of stories, recipes, ideas and personal thoughts are laid on the table once again. The podcast will echo this, with guests joining me at the table to eat and talk - share and learn.
“You can learn a lot about someone when you share a meal together” - Bourdain
Thank you for subscribing and on with Issue 1!
THE FOOD
It is finally spring here in my part of Canada. At last the sun is shining - most days - and Its getting green! Sadly, spring is a rather short experience here. Summer arrives with gusto earlier and earlier each year. The seasons here are more a reality of a long drawn out winter, a blink of spring before the the full intensity of the summer heat takes hold than a swift but picturesque autumn. The four seasons are not as distinct here as they once were. I wish springtime was longer lasting. The full colourful bloom of a Canadian summer is lovely but seeing nature “wake up” is more pleasurable. There isn’t much yet to collect from the gardens here in Prince Edward County, but - what is available is pretty delicious.
Asparagus, rhubarb, morels, ramps, fiddleheads and a few more wild plants are popping their heads above the ground. Some you have to look for - literally out in the wild - but for asparagus and rhubarb you can find those quite easily in May and early June. If you're lucky enough a local farmer or outdoor market will have some freshly cut.
Asaragus and rhubarb are the flavours of spring to me having grown up in rural Canada - but my time spent living in Europe inspired more flavours of this season.
One of my favourite memories of living in Italy was going for the midday walk after lunch - sometimes after a little nap. In April and May wild asparagus can be found in the fields and along the roadsides. Its much thinner than domestic asparagus and has a delicate flavour. It is perfect as an addition to a simple pasta dish (recipe below) or gently sautéed and served with soft eggs. Walking through the Italian countryside, sun shining, dogs in tow, with a paring knife in my pocket to nick a handful of wild spears from the ground - pure bliss. If I was lucky some wild herbs could be plucked as well. I try to recreate that experience here in Southern Canada by going out in search of morels and ramps (wild leeks) - the first edible treats available in the early season. Morels are best enjoyed simply sautéed in butter and served with a soft omelette. As for the ramps - I like a simple pickling. Boil water, vinegar, sugar and some lovely spices - perhaps allspice berries, cumin seed, mustard seed and peppercorns - pour over cleaned ramps and seal. Delicious as part of a charcuterie. Rhubarb was less of a fixture in Italy, but I adore it and it is typically the sweet precursor to the first strawberries of the season. I have included a recipe for a traditional crostata di marmellata with rhubarb jam - a slice served for breakfast (colazione) is Buonissima!
Here in Canada, as the winter months dragged on I needed a change of scenery and some inspiration. Only a short train ride away is Montreal. Lovely museums, excellent food and unique shops - everything needed to beat the late winter doldrums. I have provided a Montreal guide below - where to eat, sleep, shop and spectate. I travel solo most often and am very comfortable doing so. I do research some things prior to a trip but I lean on instinct and talking with locals to find the lesser known gems. But, some places are well recognised and touted for a reason and they deserve inclusion in these guides too.
As part of a regular feature each month I will answer your questions and let you know what is occupying my time - books, music, movies, must haves, local happenings and more! I will always provide this at the end so be sure to scroll to the bottom!
RECIPES
Pasta with Fresh Asparagus, Lemon and Marjoram
Serves 4
1 Bunch Fresh Asparagus - approximately 12 spears -snap off the end and slice each spear in half lengthwise
25 grams olive oil
Zest and juice of 1 Lemon (use a washed, unwaxed lemon)
2-3 sprigs fresh marjoram - pluck the leaves off and discard the stems
50-60 grams grated parmigiano
55 grams unsalted butter
500 grams dry pasta - spaghettini or chitarra
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil. Cook pasta to al dente.
While the pasta is cooking - in a saute pan gently cook the asparagus spears in the olive oil, season with salt and pepper. Cook for 5-6 minutes over medium heat until tender and just slightly limp but the tips are still firm. Remove from heat.
In a large bowl place the lemon zest, juice, marjoram, parmigiano and butter. Add the asparagus and cooked pasta along with a few splashes of the cooking water. Toss together and serve immediately.
Crostata di Marmellata with Rhubarb Preserve
Serves 8-10 Slices
DOUGH
300 grams All Purpose or “00” Flour
125 grams White Sugar
1/4 tsp salt
150 grams cold butter, cubed
2 egg yolks
Zest of 1 Orange
RHUBARB PRESERVE
12-15 stalks Fresh Rhubarb, Trimmed, Cleaned and Chopped into Inch Pieces
400 Grams White Sugar
1 Large Apple Quartered, Seeds Removed
1 Vanilla Pod, Sliced Lengthwise, Seeds Scraped
FOR THE DOUGH - in the bowl of a food processor place the flour, sugar, salt and butter. Pulse 15-20 times until the mixture resembles a course crumble. Add the yolks and zest and pulse a few more times. Add a few splashes of cold water or squeeze the juice from the zested orange if needed to bring the dough together. The dough should just hold when pressed between you in your palm and fingertips. Dump the dough onto a piece of plastic wrap and press and wrap to forma disc. Place in the refrigerator for 30minutes.
FOR THE PRESERVE - in a heavy bottomed pot place the chopped rhubarb, sugar, quartered apple, vanilla pod and seeds along with a cup water. Heat over medium heat until the mixture begins to bubble. Reduce heat and cook over low until the preserve is thickened and the water has cooked out. Allow to cool. *You can leave the mixture as is or you can puree with a hand mixer or blender to smooth it out - I prefer to leave the texture in tact.
Preheat oven to 350. Butter a 9 inch false bottom tart tin. Roll out 3/4 of the pastry and fit into the base of the tin. Trim off the excess overhang. Roll out the remaining dough and cut into thin strips to create lattice work for the top of the crostata.
Spread your rhubarb preserve over the base of the crostata. Top with the strips of dough in a lattice or criss-cross pattern.
Bake for 25-30 minutes until golden brown. Cool and serve at room temperature. Excellent with a morning espresso.
TRAVEL GUIDE
Montreal in May
Montreal is a collection of unique neighbourhoods. Old Montreal, The Plateau, Griffintown, Mile End and about two dozen more. Each offering their own atmosphere and culture. With limited time however, I prefer to sleep in one and try to walk as much as possible to one or two other neighbourhoods throughout the day. There is so much to be discovered on foot. Experiencing a place “à pied” is lovely, but particularly so in the warmer seasons. Spring through autumn is a great time to visit - don’t count out the winter though, it provides a distinct experience too. Montreal is easily a city that you can visit many times over and still be able to try something new each time - and drop in on old favourites. My guide is a combination of both. For a calendar of events in Montreal throughout the year click here .
SLEEP
I love a hotel, more so than a rental flat. Proper bed and breakfasts in smaller places are preferred and in Europe I love a village agriturismo. In Montreal, I go with smaller(ish) hotels.
Auberge du Vieux Port - Located in a historic former warehouse - Lovely views and character rich rooms with exceptionally comfortable bedding. This is a great solo stay hotel but also very romantic. Walking distance to everything in the Old Port/Old Montreal and close to the Bota Bota Spa.
Hotel Uville - This is a hip little hotel in Old Montreal that is also part museum/archive. A cute cafe in the lobby and quirky but charming rooms with a nod to the 1960’s/70’s. A record player and classic vinyl available in each room.
Le Petit Hotel - Small (aptly named) hotel in Old Montreal with beautiful exposed stone walls and large arched windows. Stylish and very comfortable. A petit cafe is also located in the lobby. The “Small” room is perfect for a solo travel getaway. There are bicycles available for guests to tour around the neighbourhood.
EAT
So much delicious food in Montreal! The list is mighty but here are some personal favourites.
Moccione - Delicious Italian food in a quaint space that felt like a “local spot”. I loved the green wall tiles! The menu changes but I very much enjoyed the Radicchio as an antipasti and the Casarecce for primi.
Larry’s - This is a great place to sit up at the bar. Excellent wine selection, good espresso and a mix of plates perfect for breakfast, lunch or dinner. I went for a late breakfast and enjoyed the yogurt with rhubarb and the fresh sourdough bread with (very good) butter and jam.
Wilensky’s - Not much has changed since 1932 - Its an MTL classic and worth a stop for a bologna sandwich - with mustard of course.
Chalet BBQ - Another MTL legend - the original slow roast chicken and “sauce”. Friendly service and lots of childhood nostalgia in the form of wood panelled walls and deep seat booths.
Segreta - This “secret” spot offers Roman style pizza by the slice - “pizza al taglio”. Absolutely delicious and traditional. The Caciocavallo and Potato and the Giardiniera are standouts.
Stash Cafe - I had to restrain myself from wanting everything on the menu. A soul satisfying Polish menu with so many favourites. Give me anything pickled!
Maison Boulud - Located in the Ritz Calton, I love this spot for a quiet breakfast in the atrium. It’s a splurge, but worth it for the atmosphere and classic menu. Indulge in the omelette with fresh truffle and some beautiful fresh fruit. Bring your newspaper and relax.
Nora Gray - Lovely petit bar, perfect for a solo meal or a very cozy romantic dinner. Hand made Italian menu featuring lesser known regional classics. The tigelle was perfect (I assure you its authentic, coming from someone that lived in Emilia Romagna for some time). And, the fresh made pastas were rustic perfection. Simple and beautiful.
Place Carmin - This was a lovely surprise. A little bigger in scale than I tend to be attracted to but the long bright bar was inviting and the food was delicious. The clementine jelly was almost too beautiful and nearly brought me to tears - a simple preparation that elicits childhood memories. The canapés selection was exceptional - a series of distinct one bite morsels.
Caffettiera - As you may suspect, good Italian coffee bars are of some importance to me. There are a few excellent options in MTL but Caffettiera was memorable. As a 40-something, the nod to the 1990’s within their decor was charming. Most importantly however, their beans are roasted in Italy and served according to Italian standard - espresso Italiano! They also serve aperitivi - perfect for an afternoon break.
Cafe Parvis - A stunning cafe! Although popular and often busy, its worth a stop for a lighter lunch and good espresso. Each plate was beautiful - the menu changes but I loved the Nordic Shrimp as a starter and the Squash Salad as a light main dish.
Barroco - I am a sucker for any eatery that has a cingale (wild boar) head mounted on the wall. Barroco is a tiny spot in Old Montreal with the perfect snug bar for a dinner with your love or solo. The chat from the bartender was welcome but moreover his flawless dirty martini was a great start to the evening. The octopus was delightful and I made a special request (presumably not available outside of the winter months) for the chef’s baba au rum - enflame. It was a minor spectacle and worth every bite.
Drogheria Fine - This inconspicuous spot in Mile End is worth the wait for pillowy soft homemade gnocchi served from a window. Walk around the neighbourhood with your hot container of comfort and enjoy the sites. Italian groceries also available when open.
Mano Cornuto - Simple Italian done very well. Fresh pastas, classic cocktails (their Garibaldi is excellent), good focaccia with ricotta and the insalata verde was memorable - which is saying something for “just a green salad”
SHOP
I love food shopping above all else but a spot of clothing shopping, especially at smaller boutiques and vintage shops is always fun. I look for items that are unique to the area and for clothing I am always drawn to classic capsule pieces - simple and easy to style. Vintage pieces are generally made a little better and a classic is a classic for a reason. Money is better spent on longevity pieces that never go out of style. When it comes to food shopping - I look for what is made locally or specific to the area - a little taste of something to enjoy when you return home.
Bleu et Persillé - Abundant cheese shop and specialty grocery
Dispensa Épicerie Italienne - Excellent Italian market - enough said!
Lipa’s Kosher Market - Specialty market with a large selection of pantry staples and a delicious bakery
St - Viateur Bagels - A Montreal staple. Pick up a dozen to take home. Eating a hot fresh sesame bagel while walking in Montreal is equivalent to eating a fresh baguette while walking in Paris.
Librairie Bertrand - This is a great independent bookstore with a surprisingly large selection of covers in both English and French. Warm and helpful service. I procured a couple of hard copy cookbooks and a replacement copy of a Ruth Reichl book that I lost - luckily Bertrand had a copy available!
L’Intervalle - I try to restrain myself from overindulging in shoes- its hard. This is a great shoe store to play around in. The Mantova Suede platform loafers were very hard to pass up (click here to buy)
Boheme Vintage - Curated vintage pieces, excellent quality.
Jamais Assez - Love this petit shop with the most charming welcome dog. So many beautiful items. Lux cashmere throws, stylish home decor and unique pieces for the everyday kitchen. I couldn’t resist a set of two espresso cups from Slow Coffee (click here to buy)
Marche des Eclusiers - Beautifully set in Old Port this spot is both restaurant and farmers market. The market offers incredible local produce and pantry items and is open May - November on Saturday’s.
Maison Pepin - Clothing store in one part of their block in Old Montreal - steps away you’ll find their home goods. I purchased a pair of Ilse Jacobsen boots that I love and a couple pairs of Glerups slippers that my dog Joey also happens to also love (click here to buy). Their stonewash linen robes and pyjamas are also fabulous. From the home goods shop I picked up a stoneware oil cruet and a set of linen napkins (click here to buy)
LOOK AROUND
Musée des Beaux Arts de Montréal - An exceptional (and large) display of works - I have a particular affinity for the Dutch and Flemish masters work on display here. Christian Luyck’s Banquet Still Life… (above) from 1650 is incredible - the bowl of strawberries within the scene is perfection
For a picturesque walk worthy of beautiful architectural photos, stroll through the stretch of streets wedged between Prince Arthur Street and Laurier Ave (Drolet St., Henri-Julien St. and Laval Ave). Rows of colourful homes and winding iron staircases.
A walk through Old Montréal is also always worth it. Cobblestone streets, historic buildings and romantic corners - lovely anytime of year
WHAT I’M…
READING
Bringing it to the Table by Wendell Berry. This one is a second time around for me. I read it years ago and pulled it from the shelf again over the winter. An essential read for anyone who wants to better consider the relationship between farming and food.
The Spoon Stealer by Lesley Crewe - I was late to discover this gem but read it in a weekend and was easily wrapped up in the life of Emmeline and all the characters that float in and out of her life.
LISTENING TO
I still love listening to the Good Food Podcast with Evan Kleiman each week - an excellent hour of various food chat and a report from the farmers market- although I am often jealous when listening to that particular bit - all the lovely fresh fruits and veg available year round in California, sigh.
I have listened to every episode of The History Chicks podcast and have learned so much about women in history - some I was well aware of and others were incredible discoveries. Each episode is thoroughly researched and the host, Beckett and Susan, provide excellent source material if you want to learn even more.
WATCHING
Final seasons of Ted Lasso and the Marvellous Mrs. Maisel are finally here! And that will likely be the extent of my viewing for the next several weeks. Ruth Reichl has a new documentary arriving this month called Food and Country. Very much anticipating this one.
Always on deck though for immediate comfort viewing are old episodes of No Reservations, Parts Unknown and Nigella Bites.
INSPIRATIONS
LOCAL BUSINESS
As someone who worked out constantly during her 20’s and 30’s in order to look healthy as opposed to actually feel healthy - I have distanced myself from the conventional gym routine in my 40’s. I love being active, walking outside and riding my bike especially. However, I needed something to help keep my body strong and also relieve tension - enter pilates. I love the reformer pilates and the mat classes available at The Studio PEC. Cait and Sofia are incredible women and teachers! Small classes and helpful considerate instruction. Classes range from beginner (don’t be afraid) to (a little more) challenging but very fun power classes. Highly recommend.
ACCOUNTS
I don’t participate in a lot of social media aside from Instagram. I curate a follow list of accounts that actually inspire me and I purge that list monthly to ensure time spent on IG is well spent. A couple of accounts to introduce to you this month:
Tory Wright @toryawright - Full disclosure she is one of my best friends but I am in constant awe of her. She is the founder of two successful businesses (@papereclips and @halfpennypostage) and is currently in the initial stages of renovating her dream home in southern France. I am inspired by her daily - her design concepts, business style, perseverance, grace and wisdom. She is an amazing woman and friend. Follow her account for snippets of life in France and Prince Edward County.
Manuela Conti @conlemaninpasta - It should come as no surprise that I love following Italian content and finding other cooks who endeavour to explore and celebrate the history of Italian food. Manuela’s account is gorgeous, as are her cookbooks and she shares the beauty of her life in rural Lombardia.
Creme La Mare @cremelamare - Another account full of Italian and Mediterranean content. Creme la Mare offers a look at the slow life - the simple romantic side of life by the sea. Always a good account to peek at when feeling stressed - its very calming.
A GOOD CAUSE
Each month I will showcase a cause that I feel passionate about and that I feel confident in supporting both with volunteer time when possible and/or with financial support. Please send any suggestions you have for worthy causes you would like me to share and support.
World Central Kitchen @wckitchen - This is a tremendous organization helmed, not solely, but most recognizably by Chef Jose Andres. This team of global volunteers are able to dispatch and set up food stations with incredible immediacy in areas of disaster and distress - feeding all who are hungry in times of crisis, unrest and tragedy. Truly selfless work and worthy of your time as a volunteer (when geographically available) or with any financial aid you can offer. Please visit their website to support and to read about their work around the world.
QUESTION OF THE MONTH
Each month I will ask for question submissions via the Enid Grace Instagram account @enid_grace and select one to answer.
QUESTION FOR MAY
What exactly is “Italian Breakfast” and do you eat it every morning?
Colazione (the Italian Breakfast) is quite simple - typically an espresso (caffè) with a small pastry to enjoy alongside - or to dip into your caffè. Italians, in my experience, don’t eat a large savoury breakfast - its almost exclusively sweet. A cornetto or cookie is typical or perhaps a sweet bread like a maritozzi or brioche or a slice of crostata marmelatta (see recipe above). If its a busy (typical) morning I like to have an espresso or macchiato and a biscuit. If a longer morning permits I’ll still enjoy the sweets but perhaps with a cappuccino instead and some fresh fruit and yoghurt as well. The best mornings are spent sitting outside with the newspaper enjoying the sunshine while planning out the day ahead - if only this were possible everyday!
NEXT MONTH
*Recipes - Herb Gnudi, Walnut Yogurt, Focaccia Ripiena, Fresh Pea Risotto, Rhubarb Panna Cotta
*Memories from Springtime in Emilia Romagna
*A Travel Guide to a Quick Weekend in NYC
*Setting up My Backyard Veg/Herb Gardens
*A Recipe in Memory of my Mum
*Intro to the “Everything on the Table” Podcast
*Cooking Videos - For Paid Subscribers
*Bonus Recipes - Orange Rolls and Amaretti - For Paid Subscribers
If you are enjoying Shaking Out The Tablecloth please share with your friends
I am doing to make the asparagus pasta ASAP!
Excellent. Looking forward to more.