What is your favourite “comfort” food… particularly in the colder months?
I have provided a few more warmers below to try out this week. More soup naturally - this one from the Basilicata region called Crapiata (not the most enticing name, but hearty and delicious nonetheless), as well as a personal favourite also from the cucina povera category, Fave e Cicoria. For something sweet, an easy Italian biscotti from the Veneto called Zaletti.
Let me know in the comments what your favourite comfort recipes are!
CRAPIATA
Hearty Bean Soup from Matera
Serves 4-6
This soup is ancient, so to speak. Hailing from Matera, particularly the Sassi area which has been inhabited since Paleolithic times. Several of the little markets and bars within the Stassi sell the Crapiata soup mix used to make this humble recipe and after eating a very delicious bowl of this traditional soup in a small bar (along with some incredible bread made from the golden wheat from Lucano), I bought several bags of it. You can of course, as I have since had to, recreate this mix at home with basic pantry staples as detailed in the recipe below.
I also brought home bags of the peperoni cruschi, a dried pepper from Basilicata - you can add a couple of these to the soup as well if you can find them (I have been able to source them from online Italian specials food stores)
Use best quality olive oil and serve with a delicious bread.
100 Grams each of Dried Cannellini Beans, Small Red Beans & Romano Beans
2-3 Tbsp Olive Oil
2 Small Shallots, Peeled and Finely Chopped
3 Stalks of Celery, Chopped (Include some of the leafy heart as well)
3 Carrots, Cleaned and Chopped
Salt and Pepper
100 Grams Each of Orzo Barley, Farro & Millet
2 Tbsp Tomato Paste
2-3 Fresh Bay Leaves
3L Stock
Water
1 Bunch Cavolo Nero, Stemmed and Chopped
Parmigiano Reggiano
24 hours in advance, soak the beans in a large bowl or pot with plenty of water to cover.
Drain the beans after they have soaked and set aside. In a large heavy pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add in the soffritto (shallots, celery and carrots). Add salt and pepper and sauté for 5-6 minutes. Add in the grains and stir to coat in the oil. Add in the tomato paste and bay leaves and stir. Tumble in the beans.
Pour in the stock and add enough water as needed to cover the ingredients by about 2 inches.
Bring to a low boil, reduce heat and cover. Cook for 40 minutes and then add in the Cavolo Nero. Return the lid and cook for a further 30-40 minutes. Test the beans for doneness by pressing one between your thumb and index finger - if the bean easily gives way to the pressure, they are done - you want some texture, not mush.
Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper as needed.
Serve with a heavy grating of fresh parmigiano, a thick drizzle of best quality olive oil and a chunk of good bread on the side.
FAVE E CICORIA
Serves 2-4
If pasta were removed from the equation, this dish... this humble little dish, would be my first choice as a simple, belly filling, stress melting plate of comfort food. Found in regions in South Italy, it is most common in Puglia. Slowly cooked dried fava beans topped with sautéed cicoria (dandelion greens). This dish is a perfect balance between the nutty creamy fave and the bitter greens. I like to top the dish with a few raw shallots soaked in a touch of red wine vinegar for another contrast. If you can’t find cicoria, use another bitter green. The addition of the potato is a bit of a point of contention in Puglia…some people use it, others absolutely not! I like to add it as the best version I tasted did include it - but all means you can omit.
2-3 Tbsp Olive Oil
2 Whole Cloves of Garlic
2 Tsp Salt
1 Fresh Bay Leaf
250 Grams Split Dried Fava Beans
1 Medium Yellow Potato, Chopped with the Skin On
Good Quality Stock
For the Greens
Olive Oil
1 Bunch of Cicoria (bitter greens), Washed, Picked Through, Ends Trimmed and Roughly Chopped
In a large heavy pot heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add in the garlic, salt and bay leaf. Cook 2 minutes. Add in the dried beans and the chopped potato. Pour in enough stock (or water) to cover the beans by about 2 inches. Cook over medium low heat, stirring occasionally, for 40-45 minutes - until the beans are soft to the touch. Add a bit more liquid if needed throughout the cooking process - it shouldn’t be dry.
During the last few minutes of cooking, heat a separate pan over medium heat and Add 1-2 tablespoons more olive oil and the fresh cicoria. Add a pinch of salt and a splash of water; cook until wilted, about 6-7 minutes.
Remove the garlic from the beans (if desired) and puree or mash until your desired consistency (see photo). Top with the cicoria and drizzle with your best olive oil and a sprinkle of flakey salt.
*If you like, add a spoonful of raw sliced shallots that have been soaked in red wine vinegar.
ZALETTI
Makes Approximately 12-15
These crispy but tender cornmeal (polenta) and current biscotti from the Veneto are perfect for breakfast or as an afternoon snack with an espresso or tea.
150 Grams Yellow or White Cornmeal
180 Grams All Purpose or “00” Flour
35 Grams White Sugar
1 1/2 tsp Baking Powder
1/2 tsp Salt
175 Grams Cold Unsalted Butter, Cubed
130 Grams Currants
2 Eggs
2 Tbsp Amaretto
1 tsp Vanilla
Blend together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and butter with a stand mixer (fitted with paddle) or use your hands. Mix until the butter is broken down into small pieces. Add in the currents and stir to distribute.
Whisk together the wet ingredients until well combined.
Add the wet to dry ingredients and gently mix until combined, don’t over mix.
Wrap the dough it plastic, flatten and chill for 20-30 minutes.
Roll out the dough on a lightly floured surface, until about 1/4 inch thick. Use a knife or a diamond cutter to cut the dough into diamond shapes.
Gently brush with egg wash (egg yolk with a splash of cream or water) and dust with sanding sugar or white sugar.
Bake at 375 for about 15 minutes. They should be lightly golden brown.