Part two features mostly Italian favourites as well as a little love for some Canadiana recipes. I spread all of these recipes (part 1 and 2) out throughout the month of December and early January.
Tortellini in Brodo
Serves 4
I started making fresh tortellini for my sister a few years back and now it’s a favourite tradition for her on Christmas Day. They are a little time consuming but a nice way to while away an hour after breakfast - standing around the counter talking and laughing.
For the Pasta
100 Grams “00” Flour
60 Grams Egg Yolk
For the Filling
15 Grams Grated Parmigiano
80 Grams Mortadella
Good Pinch of Nutmeg
For the Brodo - See Recipe Below for Roasted Bone Broth
PREHEAT OVEN TO 400. IN A LARGE POT ADD CHICKEN BONES (THE EQUIVALENT OF ABOUT 2-3 CHICKEN CARCASSES OR SEVERAL CHICKen WINGS), 4-5 SHALLOTS HALVED WITH THE SKINS ON, 1 WHOLE HEAD OF GARLIC SMASHED (LEAVE THE SKINS ON), 1 WHOLE CELERY BUNCH ROUGH CHOPPED (INCLUDE ALL THE INNER LEAVES), 4-5 CARROTS UNPEELED AND ROUGH CHOPPED, 1 BUNCH OF FLAT LEAF ITALIAN PARSLEY (STALKS INCLUDED), 1 HANDFUL WHOLE PEPPERCORNS, 2 TBSP SALT.
ROAST IN THE OVEN FOR 45 MINUTES.
REMOVE FROM OVEN AND PLACE ON STOVE TOP. TOP THE POT WITH WATER. SIMMER OVER LOW HEAT FOR 4-6 HOURS. ALLOW TO COOL OVERNIGHT WITH A LID ON. STRAIN WELL. SEASON WITH SALT TO TASTE. KEEP IN THE FRIDGE OR TRANSFER TO PLASTIC LITRE CONTAINERS AND FREEZE.
To make the pasta, place the flour on a wooden surface and make a small well in the middle. Drop your yolks into the centre of the well and use a fork to break down the yolks and start incorporating the flour. Switch to your hands and knead the dough (add a few drips of water if needed). Knead until smooth and elastic. Set aside to rest under plastic or a damp towel for at least 25min.
Make your filling by pulsing the parmigiano, mortadella and nutmeg in a food processor. You are looking for a rough paste.
Roll out your pasta by hand or use a sheeter/pasta roller attachment on a stand mixer. Your pasta should be thin but not see through.
Use a pastry or pasta cutter (or knife) to cut your pasta into 1.5 inch squares. Place a small mound of the mortadella filling into the centre of each square. Fold over one corner to the opposite corner, pinch the sides together and then wrap around your index finger to complete the shape. Carry on until all your squares are shaped.
Bring your brodo to a low boil and drop in your tortellini. Cook for 6-8 minutes - they should be floating and tender.
Serve in a bowl with a sprinkle of fresh parmigiano on top.
Roasted Fennel Sausages with Grapes
Serves 4
This is a simple and very satisfying recipe. I was served this on a cold night in Emilia Romagna when the power went out. We used the outdoor oven and they were so delicious. Best quality pork sausages make all the difference here. Serve as a second course with a nice radicchio salad and some gorgonzola.
8 Fresh Fennel Sausage Links
800 Grams Red Seedless Grapes
Salt and Pepper
Olive Oil
Preheat oven to 375. Place the sausage and grapes on large sheet pan. Drizzle with olive oil and season with salt and pepper.
Roast for 35-40 minutes until the sausages are brown and the grapes are caramelised, a little bit burst and slightly wrinkled.
Orange Pistachio Biscotti
Makes 15-18 Depending on Scoop Size
These chewy little wonders are not traditional in Italy, however the flavours are. Toasted pistachios, candied orange peel and dark chocolate just taste like Italian Christmas. They are sure to become a holiday favourite.
225 Grams Soft Unsalted Butter
200 Grams White Sugar
200 Grams Brown Sugar
2 tsp Vanilla
2 Large Eggs
360 Grams All Purpose Flour
1 tsp Baking Soda
1/2 tsp Baking Powder
1 tsp Salt
320 Grams Dark Chocolate Chunks
180 Grams Candied Orange Peel, Cut into Small Pieces
150 Grams Crushed Pistachios
Preheat oven to 350.
In the bowl of an electric mixer cream together the butter and sugars. Add in the eggs and vanilla and beat for 2 minutes until smooth.
In a separate bowl sift the flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt together.
With the mixer on low gently tip in the flour mixture. Blend until just combined. Tip in the chocolate and orange peel and mix for just a moment more to distribute.
Use as 1 ounce (or larger) scoop to measure out balls of dough. Roll each ball in your hands a few times and then drop on a lined baking tray about 2 inches apart from each other.
Gently press each ball down a little and top with a good pinch of crushed pistachios.
Bake for approximately 11 minutes until they are just starting to brown on the edges. Bake for 1-2 minutes more if they seem too soft in the centre.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool slightly. They will be a little crisp on the outside and chewy in the middle.
Mostaccioli di Mamma
Makes 20 - 24
These Abruzzese biscotti are dense and richly flavoured with dark chocolate and cinnamon. An ideal biscotti for dipping in espresso on Christmas morning.
325 Grams All Purpose Flour
2 tsp Baking Powder
1/2 tsp Ground Cinnamon
50 Grams Best Quality Dark Cocoa Powder
240 Grams Almond Flour
3 Large Eggs
1 Large Egg Yolk
50 Grams White Sugar
175ml Liquid Honey
Zest of 1 Large Orange
1 tsp Vanilla Bean Paste or Good Vanilla Extract
350 Grams Melting Chocolate Buttons or Best Quality Chocolate Chips
In a large bowl whisk the flour, baking powder, cinnamon, cocoa and almond flour - set aside.
In the bowl of an electric mixer, use the paddle attachment to blend the eggs, yolks, sugar, honey, zest and vanilla until smooth. Tip in the flour mixture and blend until just combined.
Tip out onto a work surface, bring the dough together with your hands. Dust your surface with flour and roll the dough out to a 1/4 inch thickness. Use a diamond cookie cutter to cut out individual biscotti.
Place on a lined tray, leaving an inch between each. Chill for 10-15 minutes.
Bake in a preheated 350 oven for 8 minutes to start. Rotate the pan and cook for another 4-6 minutes until firm and lightly puffed up.
All to cool.
For the chocolate, use a double boiler (large bowl set atop of pot of simmering water) to gently melt the buttons or chips until liquid.
Use a fork to hold each biscotti while dunking in the chocolate. Allow the excess chocolate to drip away before placing back on the lined tray. Continue with remaining biscotti.
Chill to set the chocolate.
Drizzle remaining chocolate over top to create some texture. Chill again.
Use a small paring knife to remove any chocolate pools around the biscotti.
Dust with cinnamon to finish.
Mezzaluna
Makes 15 - 18
I suppose I most consider these when thinking of Italian Christmas biscotti. They are so tender and delicious but be warned… not the easiest to make. The dough is temperamental and it’s best to get some friends around the table to help in the shaping - or ensure you have some quiet time to yourself to shape/meditate! You can simply sprinkle these with powdered sugar or dip the ends in dark chocolate.
100 Grams Almond Flour
65 Grams White Sugar
175 Grams Soft Flour or “00” Four
1/4 tsp Salt
1/2 lb Cold Unsalted Butter, Cut into Small Cubes
1 tsp Almond Extract
1 Egg Yolk
In a food processor pulse all of the ingredients together until a soft dough forms. Tip out onto a work surface. Take a small amount of dough, about 35-40 grams, squeeze it in your hands to compress then roll into a short log. Gently curve the dough into a half-moon/horseshoe shape and place on a baking tray. Continue with the remaining dough.
Bake in a preheated 325 oven for 7 minutes to start. Rotate the pan and bake for a further 5 minutes until just lightly golden and set.
Allow to cool before dusting in powdered sugar.
Anice Biscotti
Makes 16 - 20 Biscotti
These are an invention of my own - based on the subtly sweet flavour of anice seed breads and desserts that I have had in many regions of Italy. A lemon glaze and a sprinkle of crushed pistachio make these festive.
300 Grams Soft Butter
225 Grams White Sugar
1 Large Egg
2 Large Egg Yolks
1 tsp Vanilla
Zest of 1 Orange
1.5 tsp Anise Seed
420 Grams All Purpose Flour
1/2 tsp Baking Powder
1/2 tsp Salt
Crushed Pistachios for Garnish
For the Glaze Powdered sugar mixed with fresh lemon juice to create a thick glaze.
In the bowl of food processor blend the butter and sugar together. Add in the eggs, vanilla and zest and blend until smooth.
Add in the anise seeds, flour, baking powder and salt. Pulse a few times until the flour is just incorporated.
Scrap the dough out onto a surface and quickly pull together into a disc. Wrap well in plastic wrap and chill for 25-30 minutes.
Preheat oven to 325.
Roll out the dough to approximately 1/4 inch thickness. Use a diamond cookie cutter to cut out each biscotti. Place on a lined baking tray, leaving about 1/2 inch between each.
Chill for 10-15 minutes before baking in the oven for 7 minutes to start. Rotate the pan and bake for a further 5-7 minutes. They should be pale but set - a light golden tinge on the edges is good.
Allow to cool. Use an offset spatula to apply the lemon glaze to 1/2 of the biscotti. Top with pistachio crumbs and set aside for 30-40 minutes - enough time for the glaze to set firm.
Parozzo
Makes 1 Cake
This is another must have Italian Christmas cake/bread. From the Abruzzo region, I love the orange and almond flavours here. A tender yet moist cake draped in dark chocolate. Traditionally the shape is a dome, however if you don’t have a dome tin simply use a ring or a bundt pan. I find this cake gets better with age - although it rarely lasts more than a day or two on the counter.
150 Grams White Sugar
190 Grams Almond Flour
165 Grams Golden Semolina
2 tsp Baking Powder
Pinch of Salt
150 Grams Unsalted Butter, Melted
5 Large Eggs, Separated
30ml Amaretto
1 tsp Almond Extract
Zest of 1 Large Orange
Juice of 1 Large Orange
Chocolate Ganache for Glazing
Preheat oven to 350
In a large bowl use a whisk to combine the sugar, almond flour, semolina, baking powder and salt. Whisk in the egg yolks, melted butter, amaretto, extract, zest and juice until smooth.
In the bowl of an electric mixer, whip the egg whites to medium peaks. Gently fold the whites into the batter.
Pour into to a greased dome tin or ring/bundt tin.
Bake for approximately 40-50 minutes. Check with a cake tester to ensure.
Allow to cool slightly before inverting on a serving tray.
For the topping - bring 250ml heavy cream to a simmer. Pour over 250 grams of finely chopped dark chocolate. Add in 1 Tbsp unsalted butter and 1 Tbsp white corn syrup.
Once the cake has cooled, pour the ganache over top. Decorate with candied oranges and bay leaves if you like.
Tourtière
Makes 1
This is perhaps the item I receive the most requests for during the holidays. I “perfected” my version of tourtière about 12 years ago and I haven’t wavered from this recipe since. Perhaps the most audacious thing I do here is omit potatoes from my recipe as I prefer to serve the tourtière with mash on the side and either old fashioned chili “ketchup” sauce or English pear chutney. Many friends ask for this tourtière as a gift each year.
For the Pastry
250 Grams All Purpose Flour
60 Grams Unsalted Butter - Cold and Cut into Small Cubes
60 Grams Cold Lard
1 tsp Salt
60-70ml Cold Water (may need more or less)
Filling
3 Tbsp Olive Oil
4 Slices of Thick Cut Smoked Bacon, Cut into Small Pieces
1 Large Sweet Onion, Finely Chopped
2 Stalks of Celery, Finely Chopped
450 Grams Medium Ground Beef
200 Grams Ground Pork
2 Pork Sausage Links - Apple Flavour if Available
1 1/2 tsp Salt
1 tsp Black Pepper
1/4 tsp Ground Clove
1/2 tsp Ground Allspice
1/2 tsp Ground Nutmeg
1/4 tsp Ground Cinnamon
75 ml Whisky (or Brandy)
125 ml Beef Stock
2 Tbsp Dark Amber Maple Syrup
For the dough - pulse the flour, cold butter and salt in a food processor. Add enough cold water to form a loose dough. Turn out onto a surface and bring together into a disc. Cover with plastic wrap and chill for 30min.
For the Filling - Heat the olive oil over medium heat in a large pan. Add the bacon, onion and celery - sauté until the bacon is just starting to crisp. Add in the beef, pork and sausage meat. Raise the heat to medium high and cook until the meat is browned.
Add in your seasoning and spices, stir to combine. Deglaze the pan with the whisky and stock. Stir and scrap the bottom of the pan to release the sticky bits.
Reduce heat to low and cook for 10-12 minutes until most of the liquid has evaporated. Stir in the maple syrup and set aside to cool.
Roll out 2/3 of the pastry for the base. Fit into a 9 inch round pie tin, trimming any excess. Fold the edges under. Place the filling in and set in the fridge to chill while you roll out the top.
Place the pastry top on the filling and trim any excess. Pinch the edges together and crimp. Use the remaining dough scraps to cut out decorations - stars, holly, etc.
Brush the entire top with egg wash and cut a small vent hole in top. Bake in a 350 oven for 45-50 minutes until golden brown. Allow to stand for 15-20 minutes before cutting.
Sucre à la Crème
My Nanny often made her version of fudge when I was a child - as an adult my taste memories of her version are more closely related to what I know recognize as Scottish Tablets. Sucre à la crème is the French Canadian equivalent and something I only make and enjoy during the winter holidays. It is easy to make - even more so if you have a candy thermometer.
Makes 32-36 Little Squares
200 Grams White Sugar
400 Grams Brown Sugar
250ml Heavy Cream
2 Tbsp Unsalted Soft Butter
In a medium saucepan combine the sugars and heavy cream. Stir over low heat until the sugar dissolves. Bring the heat up to medium and allow to come to a gentle boil. Continue to cook until you reach 240F on a candy thermometer.
Remove from the heat and cool to 110F. This will take a bit of time so plan accordingly. While you wait for the sugar to cool, prepare an 8-9 inch square tin. Line with parchment and butter the parchment.
When the sugar has cooled, add the butter and use an electric mixture or hand whisk to beat the mixture until opaque and no longer shiny, about 3-4 minutes.
Quickly pour the mixture into the pan and smooth out the top. Chill in the fridge for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Turn out of the pan and cut into small squares. *I find it easiest to start by using a sharp knife to mark your cut lines. Then, drag your knife halfway down each cut. Finally cut each line fully through.
Serve with candied nuts.
Bûche De Noël
Makes 1
This is a fun tradition that always makes for a beautiful centrepiece on the table. It’s fun to decorate - keep it simple or go over the top!
For the Cocoa Sponge
165 Grams All Purpose Flour
15 Grams Best Quality Dark Cocoa Powder
1 tsp Baking Powder
Pinch of Salt
6 Large Eggs, Separated and At Room Temperature
200 Grams White Sugar
2 Tbsp Canola Oil
2 tsp Vanilla
For the Filling
350 ml Whipping Cream
2 Tbsp Powdered Sugar
1 tsp Vanilla
2 Tbsp Chocolate Ganache (see recipe below)
Ganache
175 Grams Finely Chopped Dark Chocolate
175 ml Heavy Cream
To prepare the sponge preheat oven to 350. Grease a 12x17 baking tray and line with parchment.
Whisk the flour, cocoa, baking powder and salt together in a large bowl.
In the bowl of an electric mixer whisk the egg whites with half of the white sugar until stiff peaks form.
In a separate bowl whisk the egg yolks, remaining sugar, canola oil and vanilla until pale yellow and thickened.
Add half of the egg whites to the egg yolk mixture and gently stir. Repeat with the remaining egg whites. Add half of the flour mixture and stir to just combine. Repeat with the remaining flour mixture. Your batter should be light and airy.
Spread the batter evening in the lined tray. Tap gently to pop any air bubbles. Bake for 12-15 minutes - until just set.
While the sponge bakes prepare your rolling cloth and filling - Using a fine sieve, dust a clean dish cloth with cocoa powder.
For the filling beat the whipping cream with the powdered sugar, vanilla and ganache until thick. Keep cold in the fridge until ready to use
Once the sponge is done, quickly run knife around the edges. Invert onto the dusted cloth and remove the parchment from the bottom. Starting at the narrow end, gently roll up the sponge/towel. Allow to cool completely within the towel.
For the ganache, heat the cream until just simmering. Pour over the chocolate and stir until smooth.
To assemble - Unroll the sponge and carefully spread the filling on the inner side, leaving a 1/2 inch border. Gently re-roll the sponge/filling back up and place on a piece of parchment seam-side down. You can cut part of the roll off on an angle and place on the side of the larger piece before spreading the ganache to create a more realistic looking log.
Use an offset spatula to spread the ganache on top and on the sides. You can simply create “bark” by using fork tines to drag lines through the soft ganache. Or, melt some chocolate and spread out on a lined sheet pan - allow to set. Crack the set chocolate into long shards and stick them to the ganache to create shaggy bark.
Dust with powdered sugar (for snow) and add any embellishments you like such as:
Sugared Rosemary Sprigs
Sugared Cranberries
Meringue Mushrooms