The Season of Mists and Mellow Fruitfulness - Keats
Autumn is my season. The first morning that I step outside at 6am and feel the fresh cool air without a hint of humidity or heat - I am happy. Overjoyed in fact. Don’t get me wrong though. What I love about Autumn is that it (usually) provides cooler temperatures in the early morning and evening but, I appreciate that the sun shines and temperatures still rise to a pleasantly warm 19 degrees during the day. I don’t love cold - winter is only so charming for a short period of time. Autumn air feels different and of course the scenery changes. As much as I love green, I can’t help but submit to the colours of autumn - its calming, it feels quieter. Best of all, my beloved collection of Harris Tweed apparel and Irish Aran sweaters make it back into regular wardrobe rotation.
The farm stands are plump with the harvest and yes, I go a little crazy with the pumpkins - but in fairness, in Italy, putting pumpkins on your house is done to promote good weather and perhaps a bit of luck.
Thanksgiving is my favourite holiday - always has been. Sitting at the kids table at my Nanny’s - aunts and uncles, cousins everywhere. My Nanny’s traditional thanksgiving was heaven. Her touches included handmade rolls; the recipe of which my Uncle Steven is now caretaker of, and cherry jello - because my late Uncle Randy loved it, she made it just for him (but I always took a spoonful so I could part of his special club). She always made lemon meringue pie and she taught me how to make proper gravy. I love to cook the Thanksgiving meal now. Whether is be for many squished around the table or for only a few. This year I had a lovely small group of friends, practically family, around the table. I served a somewhat classic spread, but with just a hint of adaptation. I have provided the recipes below, however I don’t have many accompanying photos - I was focused on the joy of cooking it and eating it, photography was limited to an afterthought. What makes Thanksgiving dinner extra important? The leftovers. It’s an extra day or two of bliss. Example this turkey soup…
Other recipes I have included this month are two simple ones using up the last of the garden tomatoes. I still have some on the vine and the farmsteads in my area are still offering local tomatoes. Also, a pear and squash soup and some banana walnut madeleines.
For my mini guide this month I have provided some ideas for an autumn visit to Prince Edward County. A few places I like right here at home. I have saved my guide for Maine until next month!
As many of you read in my previous post, I made the agonizing decision to close the door on my Main Street shop, Piccolina. I have been overwhelmed by the messages and emails you have sent. My heart was both broken and filled with your kindness and support. Your love for Piccolina has been extraordinary and I am beyond grateful to have created something that touched so many of you. I will keep you updated on when the official last day will be as well as what my plan is moving forward - and yes, it will of course include cooking!
Finally - meet our newest family member, Sinead. A rescue kitten. She has made fast friends with the dogs and is quite at home here.
THE FOOD
As mentioned, Thanksgiving is my absolute favourite holiday - particularly, if not entirely for the food. I have created many Thanksgiving dinners and one has never been exactly the same from one year to the next. This year, I stayed somewhat traditional - but for a few deviations and amplifications. However, I maintained just one standard - the fennel and sausage dressing that I starting making 20 years ago and was always my mum’s sole request - I could never change that one up.
These recipes are not just Thanksgiving recipes, they are great recipes for the change in season and use the produce that is available locally this time of year. The brining technique for the turkey can just as easily be used for a simple roast chicken any time of year. The menu items with the * are those that I have provided a full recipe for.
Please remember I post most of the recipes on my website, some of which include videos as well. enidgrace.com
Menu
*Popovers
*Citrus Brined Turkey with Herb Butter
Heirloom Carrots and Parsnips with Orange Honey
Green Beans with Shallots
*Fennel and Sausage Dressing
Brown Butter Mashed Potatoes
*Honey Nut Squash and Roasted Pear “Souffle”
*Pumpkin and Mascarpone Pie
Apple and Pear Crostata
Popovers
Popovers are a slightly denser version of Yorkshire pudding. I tend to serve the ‘lighter” airier Yorkshire puddings with beef and make the popovers for fowl. It is best to make your batter in advance. I like to use butter in the pan and let it brown for extra flavour, or duck fat. Vegetable oil will work too.
Makes 12
100ml Whole Milk
125 Grams All Purpose Flour
2 Large Eggs
Pinch Salt
Butter for Pans
Place all the ingredients except for the butter in a bowl and whisk well to combine, ensuring there are no flour lumps. Set to the side or in the fridge for an hour or so.
Preheat oven to 400. Place a small knob of butter into the bottom of your popover pan or muffin tin. Place in oven for about 5 minutes until the butter is very hot and browned. Remove pan from oven and carefully distribute the batter evenly - being careful not to splash yourself with the hot fat.
Place the pan back in the hot oven for a further 15-20 minutes until risen/puffed and golden.
Citrus Brined Turkey
12-15lb Fresh Young Turkey
1 Cup Sea Salt
1 Cup White Sugar
4 Oranges, Halved
Handful each of fresh Sage, Thyme and Bay Leaves
2 Tbsp Peppercorns
Herb Butter
1/3lb Soft Unsalted Butter
Zest of 2 Large Oranges
5-6 Stems Fresh Thyme
Salt and Pepper
In a large lidded container or cooler place the salt and sugar. Halve the oranges and squeeze the juice into the cooler and toss in the halves. Add the fresh herbs and peppercorns. Add a couple quarts of cold water and stir to dissolve the salt and sugar. Place your turkey on top and add more water to cover. Add a heavy bowl or weight to the top of the turkey to keep in submerged. Place the lid on and leave for 24 hours in a cool place (if using a cooler) or in the fridge if using an uninsulated container.
For the herb butter - combine the soft butter with the zest, thyme leaves, salt and pepper.
Preheat oven to 400. Remove the brined turkey from the water and pat dry. Discard the brining liquid. Gently use your fingers to loosen the skin from the breast and leg meat. Use your hands to smear the herb butter under the skin directly onto the meat. Place a few fresh whole sage leaves under the skin for decoration and then gently smooth the skin down.
Place the turkey in a roasting pan breast side up. Cook in the hot oven for 20 minutes at 400 then drop the heat to 350 and cook for a further 3 hours, approximately. Use a thermometer to test - place in the thickest part of the thigh, if the temperature is 160-165 remove from the oven, cover and rest. The skin should be golden brown.
Save the pan drippings for gravy!
Fennel and Sausage Dressing
1 Loaf of Good Italian Bread - Dried Out and Cut into 1 inch cubes
3 Tablespoons Olive Oil
1 Large Yellow Onion - Diced
4 Stalks Celery - Diced
2 Cloves Garlic - Minced
2 Bulbs Fresh Fennel, Diced (reserve some of the fronds for garnish)
3-4 Fresh Fennel Sausages - Casing Removed
Salt and Pepper
3 Cups Good Quality Chicken Stock
1 Tbsp Unsalted Butter
In a large pan heat the oil. Add the onions, celery, garlic and fennel. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté over medium heat for 6-8 minutes until soft and lightly golden. Break up the sausage meat into the pan and continue to cook until the sausage browns and gets a little crispy.
Remove from the heat and transfer to a large bowl, ensuring all the pan juices and fat are included too. Add in the dry bread cubes and toss well to combine. Add the stock and stir once more. Transfer to a baking dish, dot the top with a few knobs of butter and bake for 35-40 minutes. Garnish with the fresh fennel fronds.
Honey Nut Squash and Roasted Pear “Souffle”
This is not a traditional souffle, in that it doesn’t rise to great height nor is it light and airy. It does have a lightness when compared to mashed potatoes however. It is always a treat for guests, who are often unsure at first of the combination. They always end up going back for seconds though. This recipe came to me as I was making my Squash and Pear Soup (recipe also included below). I love all of the produce at the farm stands this time of year and the little honey nut squash and small forelle pears are too good to pass up.
3-4 Honey Nut Squash (not to be confused with Butternut which are much larger)
4 Forelle Pears or other variety
4 Large Whole Star Anise
1/4lb Unsalted Butter + 2 Tbsp
Salt and Pepper
4 Large Eggs
175 ml Cream or Whole Milk
Heat oven to 375. Half the squash and remove the seeds. Place flesh side down on a baking sheet. Half the pears as well and remove the core. Add them to the baking tray as well as the star anise. Top with the 1/4lb of butter and salt and pepper and bake for 35-40 minutes until tender and soft. Cool and remove the skins from the squash. The pear skins can remain intact. Discard the star anise.
In a blender, combine the squash and pears (and any of the star anise scented fat from the baking tray) with the eggs, cream and the remaining butter. Blend until smooth. Transfer to a baking dish and bake for 45 minutes until golden on top and with just a slight jiggle in the centre.
Pumpkin and Mascarpone Pie
1 Sweet Crust (recipe below)
2 Whole Sweet Pumpkins (“pumpkin pie pumpkins”)
2 Large Eggs
250 Grams Mascarpone
100 Grams Brown Sugar, Packed
2 Tbsp Dark Maple Syrup
2 tsp Ground Cinnamon
1/4 tsp Ground All Spice
2 tsp Good Vanilla
Pinch of Sea Salt
Sweet Pastry
250 Grams All Purpose or “00” Flour
50 Grams White Sugar
Pinch of Salt
125 Grams Cold Unsalted Butter
2-3 Tbsp Cold Water (as needed)
Place the flour, sugar, salt and cold butter in a bowl and quickly blend with your fingers to break the butter into small pea-size pieces (this can be done in a food processor as well). Slowly add some cold water and blend until you have a dough that just holds together when squeezed. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap to form a flat disc and chill for at least an hour.
To Assemble the Filling
Carefully halve the pumpkins and remove the seeds. Roast flesh side down in a 350 oven for 45-50 minutes until soft. Cool and remove the flesh from the skin. You need about 2.5-3 cups of flesh total.
In a blender combine the pumpkin with the remaining ingredients and blend until smooth.
Roll out your pastry and fit into a deep pie dish. Use the off cuts of dough to garnish your edges - I did leaves on top of a crimped edge. Add you pumpkin filling. Brush the edge of the crust with a simple egg wash. Bake in a 350 degree oven for approximately 50 minutes. The crust will be golden brown and the filling will have darkened and be slightly loose still in the centre - a little wiggle. Remove and leave to cool. I like to garnish this pie with some pumpkin seed brittle and a few whole star anise. Serve with fresh whip cream or creme fraiche.
Simple Tomato Tart
The end of season tomatoes are often my favourite - full of rich sweet flavour. When the weather starts to get chilly I opt to bake or roast the remaining vine tomatoes rather than eat them in a salad or sandwich. This is such an easy tart. Don’t fuss with homemade puff pastry, just buy a good quality all butter version from the shop.
1 Sheet All Butter Puff Pastry
1 Large Egg Yolk (for egg wash)
Mixture of Vine Ripe Tomatoes - Sliced and or Halved and Quartered
Fennel Seed (to taste)
Heavy Sprinkle of Flakey Salt
Healthy Drizzle of Olive Oil
Drizzle of Balsamic or Agresto Vinegar
Fresh Ground Pepper (to taste)
2-3 Sprigs Fresh Oregano
Grated Parmigiano to Garnish
Heat oven to 375. Roll out the pastry onto a baking tray, score the edges with a knife (about 1 inch) and dock it everywhere else to prevent bubbles. Brush with egg wash (egg yolk mixed with a splash of water). Sprinkle with fennel seeds and salt. Top with your various slices, halves and quarters of tomatoes. Drizzle with olive oil, vinegar and sprinkle a bit more salt, fennel seed and the freshly ground pepper on top. Add the fresh oregano leaves. Bake for 20-25 minutes until golden, puffed around the edges and crispy on the bottom. Finish with a generous sprinkle of grated parmigiano and a final drizzle of best quality olive oil.
Pasta with Roasted Tomato Sauce
Serves 4
Mixture of Fresh Vine Ripe Tomatoes - Approximately 2 pints, Halved/Quartered
Fresh Herbs - Thyme, Oregano, Basil (a few sprigs of each)
Olive Oil
250ml Good Quality Passata
500 Grams Short Pasta
1 Ball Fresh Mozzarella
Parmigiano
Heat oven to 400. Place your cut tomatoes on a baking tray along with the fresh herbs. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, Drizzle well with olive oil and toss with your hands. Roast in the oven for 25-30 minutes until soft, caramelised and wrinkly. While the tomatoes are roasting, boil your pasta and cook until al dente - just under al dente in fact, as the pasta will finish cooking in the oven.
Remove the tomatoes from the oven and reduce heat to 375. Transfer the tomatoes, herbs and all the juices to a bowl (removing any herb stems). Roughly mash the tomatoes and herbs. Add the passata and stir to combine. Tear the mozzarella into pieces and add to the sauce, stir to combine. Mix in the cooked pasta and transfer to one large or a few individual baking dishes. Top with a generous sprinkle of parmigiano and a drizzle of olive oil. Bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes.
Roasted Pear and Honey Nut Squash Soup
Serves 4-6
4 Honey Nut Squash - Halved, Seeds Removed
4 Forelle Pears (or other variety) - Halved, Core Removed
Olive Oil
Salt and Pepper (for Roasting)
1 Red Onion - Diced
2 Cloves of Garlic - Minced
Salt and Pepper (For Soup Base)
2 Tsp Ground Tumeric
3-4 Whole Star Anise
2 Litres Best Quality Chicken Stock
Crispy Sage Leaves to Garnish
* I like to make this soup a day in advance or a few hours ahead of serving. I do the recipe right up until the removing of the star anise from the liquid. I find that leaving the star anise in for a while after the simmering process imparts more of its flavour. Allow the mixture to cool for a couple hours or overnight and then remove the star anise and proceed with the remainder of the recipe. Gently reheat the soup when ready to serve.
Heat oven to 400. Drizzle an oven safe pan/dish with olive oil. Place the cut squash along with the pears in the pan and season with salt and pepper. Roast for 35-40 minutes until tender. Allow to cool slightly and then remove the squash flesh from the skins and discard the skins. The skins of the pears can remain.
In a large pot heat the olive oil and add the onion, garlic, turmeric, star anise and salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat for 6-8 minutes until the onions are softened. Add in the roasted squash and pears and stir to combine. Top with the chicken stock and bring to a gentle boil, reduce heat to medium low and simmer for 30 minutes more with a lid on.
Remove from heat and pluck out the star anise. Use an immersion blender to finely puree the soup (add a bit more liquid if needed to reach the desired consistency).
Garnish with crispy sage leaves, sage oil and a whole star anise.
Crispy Sage Leaves
Heat olive oil in a pan. Gently add in clean whole fresh sage leaves and fry until crispy, takes just a couple minutes. Remove to a paper towel to drain and cool. Save the sage infused oil to drizzle on the soup as well.
Banana Walnut Madeleines
65 Grams Whole Wheat Flour
45 Grams Quick Oats
30 Grams Bran
40 Grams Finely Chopped Walnuts
1 tsp Baking Powder
1 /2 Tsp Baking Soda
Pinch Salt
1/4 tsp Allspice
1 tsp Ground Cinnamon
55 Grams Dark Brown Sugar
1 Large Egg
160 mL Sunflower Oil(or other light oil)
60mL Buttermilk
1 tsp Good Vanilla
1 Large Ripe Banana - Mashed
12 Whole Walnuts for Garnish
Preheat oven to 350. Lightly butter a madeleine pan.
In a large bowl combine the whole wheat flour, oats, bran, chopped walnuts, baking powder, baking soda, salt, allspice and cinnamon. Set aside.
In another bowl whisk together the brown sugar, egg, oil, buttermilk, vanilla and the mashed banana.
Add the dry ingredients to the wet and mix to combine.
Evenly distribute the batter in the pan. Top each madeleine with a whole walnut and gently place the pan in the oven. Bake for 18-20 minutes. Perfect with tea or espresso!
TRAVEL GUIDE
Living in Prince Edward County is a gift. I am genuinely lucky to have been raised here and happy that I decided to return in adulthood. It is a rich agricultural area with lovely hamlets and villages. This mini guide offers but a few of my favourite places to wander about during the Autumn season.
SLEEP
If you are able to stay beyond a day trip these are beautiful bed and breakfasts to enjoy small town/ rural comforts.
The Wellington Willows - A luxury bed and breakfast within short walking distance to Main Street Wellington. Exceptional attention to detail, delicious food and the hosts are absolutely lovely.
The Wilfrid Boutique Farmhouse - Rural retreat with all the amenities of a 5 star accommodation. Its gorgeous!
Augustus House - Charming former hotel from 1860 located right in Wellington. Beautifully restored and creatively and thoughtfully decorated throughout.
VISIT
Autumn in PEC is the best time to visit, in my opinion. The traffic is lighter and the landscape is gorgeous. So many stunning colours. The harvest at the wineries in underway and the farmsteads are filled with seasonal produce.
There are many places to walk, be it the Millennium trail or Macaulay Mountain. I live in Hillier so am partial to the coloured foliage found on Greer Road and Danforth Road.
A stop at Cold Creek Vineyards/Cidery is worth the landscape alone but be sure to taste Chris and Sylvia’s excellent cider before they run out for the season. Ask for a peek at the small menagerie of animals on the property including Nestor the mini donkey and Charlotte Lamb.
Hubbs Creek Winery is my stop for local wine. Batista is a master and every bottle he produces is fantastic - you will surely leave with a bottle or two after just one taste.
For farm fresh produce I always go to Laundrys Farm. Outside of my own garden, all of the seasonal produce I cook/bake with comes from this farm. Plus, they have the best selection of pumpkins!
If apple picking is your ambition than I suggest Campbells Orchards - just up the road from where I grew up in Rednersville. I spent much of my childhood there and I still hold a soft spot in my heart for it. It’s a great place for kids too.
There are always lots of small events happening at the Town Halls during the autumn months as well as events such as Countylicious. Visit The County is a great resource for upcoming events.
EAT
Where to eat in PEC? There are many wonderful options. I am asked this question often - I am partial to a few of course, those that I go to time and again - sometimes weekly. However, since I am myself a fellow member of the local food and beverage community I opt not to play favourites. If you are visiting PEC and would like my top picks please send me a message.
INSPIRATIONS
Local Business
Creekside Cafe & Suites is run by two stellar women, Elisha and Cheynelle. They, along with their team serve breakfast and lunch in a beautiful cafe space. Exceptional eggs Benedict, perfect waffles, an addictive salad and signature cocktails are just a few of the items to try on the menu. Located right on Main Street with lots of seating. Above the cafe are two stunning and well appointed suites. Extra comfortable beds, lux care products and all the comforts of home. Plus you can just slip downstairs in the morning for breakfast!
WHO I’M FOLLOWING
Cherie Denham is a wonderful baker/chef from Ireland and I love her account. The photos are inspirational and as my ancestry is Irish, I have a particular fondness. I am eagerly anticipating her new cookbook - The Irish Bakery. Find her on IG @cheriedenhamcooks
What I’m Reading
As usual I have several on the go. At the moment I am fully engaged with Passionate Mothers, Powerful Sons by Charlotte Gray. I have long researched the life of Eleanor Roosevelt but have found an interest in both Jennie Jerome and Sara Delano now as well. A great read if you are fond of women in history.
I am mixing that with a book I picked up locally at Books & Company - Food and Trembling by Jonah Campbell.
Finally, my cookbook obsession the last couple weeks has been Aran by Flora Shedden - a gorgeous cookbook featuring recipes from her Scottish bakery in Dunkeld. Also love her instagram account @aranbakery.
What I’m Listening Too
Back for season 4, Mobituaries, is a great podcast hosted by Mo Rocca. Each episode is educational and fun - episode 1 of season 4, Died on the Same Day, is awesome!
What I’m Watching
Watching documentaries and “docu-series” are often my favourite viewing options. I have really enjoyed Broken Bread, a series from Chef Roy Choi. It’s a great series about how food and activism intertwine and serve to promote change in a positive way.
As it is Autumn I do tend to get romantic about the season - cuddled up on the couch with a cup of tea watching an old movie that ‘feels like Autumn”. Some good suggestions I often return too: When Harry Met Sally, Dead Poets Society, Cider House Rules, Election, Mermaids, Truffle Hunters.
Question of the Month
I have had several messages in the last few months about beverages - what do I like to drink and what do I keep in my pantry to cook with.
I don’t actually drink very much alcohol but I would say I am rather classic in what I do enjoy from time to time.
I like red wine - preferably from Northern Italy (Barolo) or Burgundy. I really like scotch - good scotch, I believe there is a difference. It is rarely the occasion that I enjoy a dram but when I do its typically in the cooler seasons - its ridiculous, but I think it tastes even better after a chilly afternoon walk. Bourbon is also a good option.
I like digestivo’s, again on a rare occasion and only after dinner.
My Nanny often enjoyed a sip of Sherry once a week after watching the evening news. I think of her on the occasion when Warren and I enjoy a Port together - although not quite the same, I think of her nonetheless.
And as for cooking with alcohol - when its needed, for a braise perhaps - I will only use something I would actually drink. Good quality ingredients always matter. I wouldn’t buy something of lesser quality just because I was only going to cook with it.
Next Month
Recipes Inspired by Maine
A Mini Guide to Maine (its a great place to visit in Autumn/Winter too)
An actual update about the long overdue Podcast - my apologies (there has been much delay on account of other life stresses). Nonetheless I am excited to start sharing it with you!
Christmas Ideas - Yes, its upon us