My Life Was Saved with a Bowl of Hot Broth
It was a close one - but Nonna Moro's Stracciatella fixed everything. Luckily me and my hair survived.
I was living in a high top village in Emilia Romagna - a small farm with sheep, donkeys, chickens, kittens, dogs, etc. Vast rolling greenery, stone houses scattered around the hills and valleys. It was magic. Serene, idyllic, quiet - everything I could have hoped for. Each morning I would lead the sheep through the hills - imagine a slightly less glamourous Claudia Cardinale roaming the hillside in jeans and welly’s.
I had to learn to make friends with the lone ram - he dictated whether I or not I was successful in “shepherding” the flock. Our first encounter was less than cordial - but, an apron full of carrots quickly mended our first encounter tensions. We became buddies - he followed me and the ladies followed him and all was quite bucolic and enchanting.
One particular day however I went into the garden and found that one of the sheep had managed to escape her enclosure and was happily gorging on the chard patch. I attempted to “shoo” her out to no avail and when I approached to guide her back to the enclosure I was met with a fierce side eye - a very stern, “don’t trifle with me” look. Clearly she was proud that she had managed to figure out a way to escape and she was going to enjoy that chard! We had a minor verbal back and forth before she conceded and I escorted her back to her pen. She was displeased and stroppy - she waited until my back was turned to take a run at me, pushing me down into the sheep pen - dirt, manure, etc. She sauntered back to her ramp and readied herself for a nice nap in the sun - no remorse.
I was filthy - my hair especially. There was an outdoor shower that I used to rinse myself off and more importantly clean out my long curly hair that had been rather saturated in the muck. The day was easing into the late afternoon and I decided to air dry in the dwindling sun. The Nonna of the farm came outside almost immediately - fully panicked and walking as quickly as she could. Enes, Enes! (my name pronounced most often in Italy). She was beside herself that I was outside - at this time of day, in this season (late April) with WET hair!
I would have pneumonia by dinner if I did get inside now! I loved her so and accepted her arm as she swiftly guided me into the kitchen. First remedy, hair in a towel. Second, scarf around the neck and lastly… broth - hot broth.
I had of course grown up with “chicken soup”. It was typical for Mum to heat up a can of Campbells Chicken Noodle on a sick day with some Premium Crackers on the side. Good - not great. My next introduction came from a childhood friend who was Jewish - her Austrian grandma made me Matzo Ball Soup for the first time and was forever changed. Jewish Penicillin!
As my interest in cooking grew as a child I learned more about stock and broth and their value - not just the flavour but its significance culturally. So many cultures have a variation on chicken soup - most of which are employed to make us feel better - cure what ails us.
To swiftly save my life, Nonna Moro made me Stracciatella, an Italian version - chicken broth with eggs and parmesan swirled in. My first experience with this taste/smell was akin to how I felt when I first discovered Matzo Ball Soup. Simple, delicate, soothing and healing.
Stracciatella has a few regional variations but it is most common in Rome. Nonna Moro’s version was near exact to the Roman original but she added snipped tops from her garlic plants. The eggs were from the farm and the bones she used to make the broth were also from the farm. I learned how to make her broth just by mental photographs (never a recipe). Roasted bones with lots of vegetables skins, stems, all of it. Slowing simmered for 5-6 hours - this is still the recipe I use today (included below).
I ate my Stracciatella while she watched. I would be okay. But - no more fooling around Enes! I made her feel more at ease by asking for a second bowl - always ask a Nonna for another bowl, just to be safe. As for the flock - we all remained friendly.
STRACCIATELLA
Serves 4
1.5 Litres of Good Chicken Broth/Stock (recipe follows)
4 Large Eggs
85 Grams Freshly Grated Parmesan Cheese
1/4 tsp Freshly Grated Nutmeg
Fresh Parley to Garnish
Spritz of Fresh Lemon to Finish
Heat your broth over medium high heat in a large pot until simmering. In a separate bowl whisk together the eggs, nutmeg and parmesan.
While stirring the broth with a large spoon, slowly pour in the egg mixture.
Remove from heat. Taste for seasoning - add salt if needed (depends on your broth). Serve in bowls with fresh parsley on top and a spritz of lemon - Serve Very Hot!
BONE BROTH
PREHEAT OVEN TO 400. IN A LARGE POT ADD CHICKEN BONES (THE EQUIVALENT OF ABOUT 2-3 CHICKEN CARCASSES), 4-5 SHALLOTS HALVED WITH THE SKINS ON, 1 WHOLE HEAD OF GARLIC SMASHED (LEAVE THE SKINS ON), 1 WHOLE CELERY BUNCH ROUGHLY CHOPPED (INCLUDE ALL THE INNER LEAVES), 4-5 CARROTS UNPEELED AND ROUGHLY CHOPPED, 1 BUNCH OF FLAT LEAF ITALIAN PARSLEY (STALKS INCLUDED), 1 HANDFUL WHOLE PEPPERCORNS, 3-4 BAY LEAVES, 2 TBSP SALT.
ROAST IN THE OVEN FOR 45 MINUTES.
REMOVE FROM OVEN. TOP THE POT WITH WATER AND SIMMER OVER LOW HEAT FOR 5-6 HOURS. ALLOW TO COOL OVERNIGHT WITH A LID ON. STRAIN WELL. SEASON WITH SALT TO TASTE. KEEP IN THE FRIDGE OR TRANSFER TO PLASTIC LITRE CONTAINERS AND FREEZE.
What goes best with a hot bowl of soup - bread! What’s better and even more comforting? Cheese and bread!
One of my favourite Italian films is Lardi di Biciclette - The Bicycle Thief. I watched it for the first time in college and have forever loved one scene in particular. Bruno, Antonio’s son, has his first experience at a restaurant. The whole scene in perfection but when Bruno is served a simple sandwich - my whole heart fills.
That sandwich was a Mozzarella in Carrozza (in a carriage). I think little Bruno may have provided the world with the first on screen “cheese pull”. This is a simple and gratifying recipe that relies on few ingredients - what is most important is the quality of the fresh mozzarella. It can only be made with fresh mozzarella. For the bread it shouldn’t be dense - a simple soft white bread that can press together easily.
Make a bowl of Stracciatella and a simple Carrozza to enjoy while watching The Bicycle Thief - an afternoon well spent.
MOZZARELLA IN CARROZZA
Makes 2
4 Slices of White Bread, Crust Removed
1 Large Ball of Fresh Mozzarella, Sliced into 1/4 inch Slices
125ml Milk or Cream
3-4 Tbsp All Purpose Flour
1 Large Egg
Oil for Frying - Regular Olive or Canola
Place 1-2 slices of mozzarella between 2 slices of the bread, leaving a boarder. Press/pinch the sandwich together around the edges to seal the cheese inside.
Pour the milk into a shallow bowl. The flour into another and whisk the egg in a further bowl.
Heat the oil in a large pan over medium heat.
Dip each sandwich (both sides) in the milk first (quickly, don’t over saturate), then dredge in the flour. Finish with a quick dip in the egg to coat.
Carefully place in the hot oil and fry on both sides until golden brown. Remove to a paper towel to drain and season with salt while still hot from the oil.
Be careful when you bite in - that mozzarella will be molten hot!