Reflecting On One (Italian) Adventure While Planning The Next
Where Shall We Explore Next? Plus two weekend recipes.
Awoke to a fresh covering of snow this morning - naturally after having put away the winter boots, shovels, etc. However, the sun is out! Spring is here - according to the calendar and it actually seemed possible last week when jackets were optional and the bulbs and tree blossoms were exposing themselves. But, this is Canada - so “second Winter” is almost always lurking behind our “false Spring” revelry.
Not much to be done on this snow day but read, write and cook. As I enjoyed a macchiato and biscuit this morning (a Baci di Dama- recipe below) I started reflecting on my last time in Tuscany. As you may know I have started offering “My Tours” - small group tours around the world with a focus on regional culture and food. This September I am hosting the inaugural group in central Tuscany - in the Val d’Orcia. We will stay at a beautiful villa in Montelpuciano and explore the surrounding villages during the harvest season. I am thrilled to meet my travel companions and introduce them to the seasonal food of the Val d’Orcia as well as the places I have previously enjoyed here including Pienza, Montelcino, San Gimignano and Bagni San Filipo.
The last time I was there was Autumn 2017 - a solo trip after my first season of operating Enid Grace Cafe. I went with an intent to ride horses with the Butteri of the Maremma, eat incredibly well and drive somewhat aimlessly, stopping at towns and villages along the way. I did all of that and then some.
The food was rich and flavourful. The markets during harvest season were flush with greens, orchard fruits, grapes, porcini, beans and exceptional local cheeses and cured meats. I was introduced to many versions of Cinghiale (wild boar), including ragu, sausage and slow braises. The pecorino of this region was delicious and vast in its variety - subtle differences depending on the grass the sheep ate and how each wheel was preserved. I ate heartily - bowls of ribollita and aquacotta, crusty breads topped with porcini, divine crocks of polenta with ragu and ample plates of biscuits and crostata to linger over with espresso. The wine was also exploratory for me. Bottles of Tignanello, Brunello, Nobile, Ciliegiolo and Vermentino made me question my loyalty to the wines of Piemonte.
The driving between villages is stunning - hills and valleys, verdant green terraces of vines and trees with ancient stone communities popping up among the Autumn colours. Tucked within the hilltop forest lays Bagni San Filipo, one of several natural thermal baths. The Italians believe in the rejuvenating effects of these natural pools and I can agree that I certainly felt something anew after an hour of warm water and the natural sounds of the forest.
As I reflect on this past solo trip and finalize the edible details for our group tour in September, I can’t help but start planning the next one. I have two areas in mind, one in Italy and another in Europe. I hope to offer 3-4 tours a year and would love to hear your suggestions - where would you like to explore with me? Please leave your suggestions in the comments!
At the time of this posting, there was one remaining room available for the September tour of Central Tuscany. Please click HERE for details and book your trip with the lovely Keeley, my tour partner at Islands and Villas.
Although it is next to impossible to find fresh porcini where I am at present, I still felt compelled to prepare an easy pasta recipe that reminded me of the porcini pasta I loved in Montelpuciano. This one also is a nod to Spring with the inclusion of asparagus. When I lived in Emilia Romagna, I foraged for porcini in the hills from time to time and it typically ended up amounting to 3-4 porcini for 2 hours of forest walking - they are treasured for a reason. However, the season of the elusive morel is upon us (here in my part of Canada) and if you are lucky to find them please substitute them in this recipe. I use two types of pecorino in this dish - a soft and a hard. The softer, less mature one adds a nice nuttiness to the dish while the aged pecorino added for saltiness. Semi ripe pecorino can be hard to find, but a good cheese monger or specialty food market should carry it.
I have also included my recipe for Baci di Dama, petit biscuits that can be spotted in big glass vases throughout Italy. I ate many of them at a cafe in Castellina where the local rabbit (owners pet) was the door greeter.
Mushroom and Asparagus Pasta
Serves 4 Primi Portions
500 Grams of Penne or other Short Pasta
2 Tbsp Olive Oil
1 Tbsp Unsalted Butter + 1 Tbsp to Finish
150 Grams of Fresh Cremini (or Porcini or Morels), Roughly Chopped or Split Apart into Quarters
300 Grams (1 Bunch) Fresh Asparagus, Woody Ends Removed and Cut into Quarters on an Angle
5 Springs Fresh Thyme, Leaves Removed
Salt and Pepper
45 Grams of Grated Semi Ripe Pecorino (or other semi soft cheese)
45 Grams Grated Mature Pecorino
Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until al dente.
While the pasta cooks, heat the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add in the mushrooms and sauté for 8-10 minutes until just starting to brown. Add in the quartered asparagus, fresh thyme leaves and season the pan with salt and pepper (not too generous with the salt as the mature pecorino is salty). Sauté for a further 6-8 minutes until the asparagus is crisp tender.
Using a large slotted spoon, pull the pasta from the water directly into the skillet. Add in a cup or so of the cooking liquid, both cheeses and the final tablespoon of butter. Turn off the heat and stir/toss the mixture. The heat from the hot pasta water will gently melt the cheese and the butter, creating a delicate sauce while you stir.
Serve hot with a sprinkle of the mature pecorino.
Baci di Dama
These little bites take a bit of time to make but well worth the effort. Perfect with an espresso or as I like to have them, with a hot chocolate for afternoon merenda.
Makes 12-15
145 Grams Toasted, Skinned Hazelnuts
145 Grams All Purpose Flour
100 Grams Unsalted Soft Butter
100 Grams White Sugar
Pinch of Salt
1/4 tsp Vanilla
60 Grams Dark Chocolate (for filling)
To toast the hazelnuts, place on a sheet pan in a 325 degree oven for about 12 minutes. Remove and cool slightly. Use a clean kitchen towel to rub the skins off the hazelnuts and discard the loose skins.
To make the dough pulse the toasted hazelnuts in a food processor until finely chopped (similar to coarse sand). Transfer the nuts to a large bowl and add in the flour, butter, sugar, salt and vanilla. Use your hands to blend the butter into the mixture until a smooth dough forms - its should hold together easily (add a splash of water if it feels dry).
Divide the dough into four pieces and roll each piece into a log shape, about 3/4 inch diameter. Place the logs on a parchment lined sheet pan and chill for a couple hours.
Preheat oven to 325. Working with one log a time (keep the others chilling), use a knife to cut the log into small pieces, about 4-5 grams each. Roll the pieces into smooth balls and place on the sheet pan (press them down just a bit to gently flatten the bottom). Continue with the remaining logs.
Bake for 12-15 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through. The tops should be golden brown. Allow them to cool completely before filling.
For the chocolate filling - melt the chocolate over a double boiler until just melted. Stir to smooth.
Place a drop of chocolate on one cookie and then top with another, gently pressing to push the chocolate just to the edge. Once they are all filled, allow to rest until the chocolate is firm.
You can keep the baci fresh in a container for about a week.
Cataldi’s in Woodbridge has frozen porcini & Berchicci in MTL (who ship overnight) usually do as well. As an ex-pat, I would be remiss if I did not mention how incredible Lazio is for food, trekking, wine, beach days & everything in between.