I easily admit that Summer is not my favourite season - aside from the gardening and the seasonal local produce. I don’t love the hot hot heat and thick humidity that I have come to expect from a lakeside Summer in Southern Ontario - readers with naturally curly hair will understand. That said, this Summer has been quite pleasant so far as weather is concerned. Unlike many other places suffering in sweltering conditions, my little island is comfortable and breezy - so far. The Summer season is also the busiest time of year for my little market in Wellington - and typically not the easiest on my overall health. A time of amped up stress, long days, traffic and limited self care. This season has been a little different though - quieter. This quiet has provided some space for deeper thought and concentrated planning - at times even a bit of day dreaming and somewhat fantastical thinking. Painting a brighter picture of what I can do with my time and how to better take better care of myself.
This isn’t always easy - as someone who, at times, can be insufferably independent. Determined to handle all things solo and steadfast in my ability to keep everything together, including myself. This slightly calmer season has shown that perhaps I need to adopt a different mindset within the day to day - slow down, be less rigid with myself and enjoy things with a different perspective. So - there has been more cooking, gardening and trip planning as well as reading and sitting by the water - I live on an island after all! Simple picnics (see video below), easy Summer recipes with fresh ingredients and finding time to sit outside and actually enjoy the weather - reminding myself of the values and habits I learned living in Italy. Summer isn't just about work being busy and stressful - hustling just so the winter can be a little easier. In fact that should be the least of my considerations when there is more stake. Finding some ease - not creating more stress.
To shut off as much as possible I head to our cabin in the woods that sits along a quiet lake. Sleeping, reading and time in the water are the only agenda items. Teaching Joey to jump off the dock has been the only real task. Surrounded by trees with nothing more than bird song in the air. The lake is quiet, no motors - just canoes and kayaks. It’s still at the cabin - I thrive, albeit quietly, in stillness.
My partner’s mother also just recently passed - both of our mothers within mere months of each other. The double loss has been felt deeply by both of us. Lorna Kinsella was an incredible women - certainly someone to admire and respect. I greatly wish I had more time with her. She was a brilliant artist - much of her art is on the walls of our home and she inspired many to paint. A favourite piece is shown below.
So - enjoy these Summer days, wherever you are. Find the ease of Summer, if it can exist for you. Rest. Eat outdoors. Swim. Read.
THE FOOD
July and August are the plentiful months for several garden items but perhaps the most aggressive item in the garden is zucchini. Although an excellent vegetable for myriad recipes, my favourite part of zucchini are the blossoms. These gorgeous bright orange whirly pouches are subtle in flavour but add beautiful colour to recipes. My favourite of these is a very simple preparation for fried blossoms that I learned in Emilia Romagna from one of my mentors, Mina. There are many recipes for fried zucchini blossoms that use a batter method, but Mina kept it very simple - opting to simply roll the stuffed blossoms in flour and shallow fry in olive oil. My preference is to let these cool to room temperature and serve on top of salad. Also utilising the plentiful zucchini is a recipe for risotto - something I insist on eating year round, simply changing the ingredients with the season. Basil is also taking centre stage this time of year and pesto is the easy solution for preserving its flavour. My pesto recipe comes from Dano, a brilliant beast of man in Diano Marina - a small village in Liguria where I lived for a short time during the summer months. He made spectacular fresh Geneovese pesto each day in the market using a massive marble pestle and mortar and bouquets of the freshest local basil. Pesto is Ligurian and this recipe is exactly as he taught me - no deviation. For some sweets I’ve included an easy Rhubarb and Ginger Semifreddo recipe. The rhubarb and strawberries are still available and we must languish in their flavours before the leave us for another year. It’s a simple make ahead recipe for the the warm Summer months. And finally a classic ricotta torta made with blushing apricots that are only in season for a short period here.
Fried Zucchini Blossoms
Serves 4
8 Freshly Plucked Zucchini Blossoms - brushed off and the stamen removed
120 grams Ricotta
Salt and Pepper
20 grams Parmigiano - Grated Finely
5-6 Sprigs Fresh Mint - Finely Chopped
Zest and Juice of 1 Lemon
Flour for Coating
Olive Oil for Frying
In a small bowl combine the ricotta, salt and pepper, parmigiano, mint, zest and juice. Using a small spoon place about 1 heaped tablespoon of ricotta filling into each blossom. Gently twist the tops of the blossom to enclose. Dust in flour.
Heat olive oil over medium high heat. Fry each blossom on all sides. Remove from oil once golden brown. Season with flakey salt and a spritz of fresh lemon juice.
Dano’s Fresh Genovese Pesto
Serves 4
2-3 Cloves Garlic
50-60 grams Pine Nuts
5-6 Cups Clean, Stemmed Genovese Basil (sweet soft basil) Leaves
50 -70 ml Olive Oil
75 grams Finely Grated Parmesan
500 grams pasta
In a pestle and mortar, crush the garlic with a pinch of salt. Add in the pine nuts and crush and stir to create a crumbly paste. Add in most of the parmesan and continue to bash and stir. Start to add the basil, half at a time, crushing it to break the leaves down. Add the remaining leaves and continue to crush and stir.
Slowly add some of the olive oil to begin creating a softer paste. Add more oil, a bit at a time, until a sauce begins to form.
The mixture should be textured and pale green. Add to hot pasta with a little of the pasta water to loosen the pesto. Add the remainder of the parmesan and toss once more.
Zucchini Risotto
Serves 4-6
40ml Olive oil
30 grams Unsalted Butter
1 large Shallot, Sliced
225 grams Carnaroli, Vialone or Arborio rice
200ml White Wine
4-5 Small Male Zucchini with Blossoms - Zucchini chopped into small pieces and the blossoms cut into ribbons
1-1.5 Litres Good Quality Stock/Broth
60 grams Unsalted Butter (to finish)
60 grams finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano (plus more for garnish)
Salt and Pepper to taste but likely unnecessary if your stock is good quality/flavourful
Ensure you stock is hot before preparing the recipe.
In a pan over medium low heat, sauté the shallot in the olive oil and butter (30 grams) for about 3-4 minutes until soft. Add the rice and stir for a further 3-4 minutes. Add in your chopped zucchini and stir, cooking for another 1-2 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the white wine. Stir until the wine is almost completely absorbed.
Turn the heat to medium. Start adding your stock, one ladle at a time, stirring gently after each addition. Continue this process until the rice is tender but firm. You may need all of the broth or have a little left over. Use your judgement when tasting the rice along the way.
Turn off the heat and add the butter, parmigiano and ribbons of zucchini blossoms. Stir gently. Your risotto should be silky and fluid and the rice al dente. Serve immediately. Garnish with additional parmigiano if desired.
Strawberry Rhubarb & Ginger Semifreddo
Serves 8
12 Small Crispy Ginger Biscuits
2 Tbsp Unsalted Butter
200 Grams Fresh Rhubarb - Cleaned and Cut into 1 Inch Pieces
200 Grams Fresh Strawberries - Cleaned, Hulled and Cut into 1 Inch Pieces
100 Grams White Sugar
3 Large Eggs, Separated
400mL Heavy Cream
3-4 Pieces of Candied/Syrup Ginger - Cut into Small Pieces
Line a loaf pan with cling film with some overhang and place in the freezer to chill.
In a food processor grind together the ginger biscuits with the butter. Press the wet sandy mixture into the cold loaf tin and return to the freezer to continue chilling.
In a pot over medium heat cook the rhubarb and strawberries together with half of the sugar. Cook for 15-20 minutes. Set aside to completely cool (ideally overnight in the fridge).
In a bowl whisk together the remaining sugar with the egg yolks until pale yellow and creamy.
In the bowl of an electric stand mixture add your heavy cream and use the whisk attachment to whip to soft peaks. Transfer to a clean separate bowl and clean and dry the mixer bowl.
Add the egg whites to the mixer bowl and whip to firm peaks. Gently fold the whipped cream and the egg whites into the egg/sugar mixture until just combined.
Using a spoon, gently swirl half of the cold fruit and the chopped ginger into the cream mixture - leave the remaining half of the fruit to the side for sauce.
Remove the loaf tin from the freezer and tip the cream mixture in. Spread the top smooth, cover with the cling film overhang and return to the freezer for 4-6 hours or overnight.
Lift from the tin, remove the cling film and slice. Serve cold with the extra fruit.
Apricot Ricotta Torta
Serves 8-10
100grams soft unsalted butter + 50 Grams for the Pan
50 Grams Brown Sugar
7-8 Ripe Apricots (depending on pan size)
1 cup white sugar
Zest of 1 lemon
3 large eggs, separated
1 cups fresh ricotta
1 tsp vanilla
Juice of 1 Lemon
75ml olive oil
1.5 cups AP Flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
Preheat oven to 350
In a 8-9 inch cake or tart pan with a removable bottom add dabs of soft butter and sprinkle in the brown sugar.
Slice the apricots in half and remove the stone. Place cut side down in the the pan.
Cream the butter, sugar and zest together. Add the ricotta and mix to combine.
Add the egg yolks to the bowl and mix. Place the whites in a separate bowl and set aside.
Add the lemon juice, vanilla and olive oil and mix gently.
Stir your dry ingredients together (flour, baking powder and salt). Add the dry to the wet and stir gently to combine being sure not to overmix.
Whisk your egg whites to stiff peaks.
Gently fold the whites into the ricotta batter until just barely incorporated.
Spread over the apricots. Don’t be tempted to tap the pan, you want to keep the air bubbles in tact.
Bake for 25-28 minutes depending on oven. Top should be golden brown and a cake tester should come out clean.
Allow to cool for 10 minutes then invert onto a serving dish and remove the false bottom. Glaze the fruit with honey if desired for shine or dust with icing sugar. Some edible flowers as garnish are beautiful.
TRAVEL GUIDE
Nashville is not somewhere I would particularly want to be in the heat of Summer however, I offer this guide as a resource for a potential trip in the Autumn months -when the Southern weather is slightly more hospitable. I took a short four day trip to Nashville last Fall and several people have asked for this guide. So if you are looking for a food focused trip with a side of neighbourhood walking and a little bit of music - this is the Nashville guide for you.
With the exception of a visit to the Johnny Cash museum I stayed well clear of downtown Nashville. The tourist throngs that converge in the main Downtown core are too much for this gal. Bachelorette parties, chain restaurants, noise, noise and more noise. So instead I offer a few lovely neighbourhoods to meander and several restaurants to check out. There is certainly incredible eating to be had in Nashville, I endeavour to discover more next time.
SLEEP
I offer two extremes here. The first, a charming slap in the face of 1970’s nostalgia and the other, a historical luxe accommodation with all the trimmings.
The Dive Motel - This slightly out of the way revamped roadside motel lures you in with its incredible attention to detail. It’s a head spin of nostalgia - every fixture, fabric and decoration is vintage (or a perfect replica). Each room is thematically distinct and comes equipped with an in room music system that matches up with your “mood”. The lounge/bar is the ultimate rumpus room - Soul Train playing on the old tube TV and classic cocktails being served by moustachioed bar tenders. Drinks are served poolside and there is great music playing all day. @thedivemotel
The Hermitage Hotel Located in the arts district, this National Historic Landmark is the epitome of glamour and comfort. The Beaux arts style throughout the building is gorgeous and the hotel has so many stories to tell if you are a history enthusiast. Picture perfect high tea service is available as well as delicious food from Jean-Georges at both The Pink Hermit cafe (go for the ciccheti and a drink) and his Drusie & Darr (go for breakfast!) @hermitagehotel
EAT
Monells I fell in love with this neighbourhood spot immediately. It was recommended by a local and did not disappoint. You are seated at a communal table in a large dining room that feels like your grandmas house growing up. Meeting locals and fellow travellers as you pass around family style platters of biscuits and gravy, cheese grits, creamy eggs, sausage, peach preserve and more! It was warm and charming and the food was delicious and plentiful! @monellstn
Hearts Nashville - Again, another recommendation from a local. Such a treat for a late breakfast. Very good espresso and perhaps some of the best scratch bread I have had in some time. It was tough to pick just one thing but I opted for the Turkish Eggs and was well rewarded. @heartsnashville
Boltons There are several excellent options to try Nashville hot chicken but Bolton’s was the one most recommended by the locals I spoke to. Its a tiny location where the flavour of the food is far more important then the simple interior aesthetic. Family Feud on the TV and a basket of chicken. I opted for the mild - I am a wimp and the server saw it a mile away. The chicken was tender and indeed spicy, quite spicy even for the mild. Eating the sliced white bread, potato salad and all the pickles really makes the meal. Cool down your mouth with the pink lemonade. @boltonsspicy
Dino’s - This well known dive bar is must visit for a simple bourbon and an excellent burger. Don’t miss the Dolly Parton lemonade stand out back. @dinosnashville
Audrey- Sean Brock is someone I admire greatly and the primary point of this particular trip to Nashville was to dine at Audrey, the restaurant named for his grandmother. I adored everything about my experience at Audrey and was thrilled to meet and chat with Chef Brock and receive a private tour of both Audrey and June (his other restaurant in the same building). Enjoy a multi course seasonal menu featuring truly local Appalachian food. The service was exceptional, everything memorable and I look forward to returning again. @audreynashville
LOOK AROUND
There are many great walkable neighbourhoods in Nashville, each offering their own mix of shops and eateries. As mentioned, aside from a stop at the Johnny Cash museum I steered clear of the downtown tourist scene. There is so much music in Nashville and you don’t need to limit your listening experience to just downtown. I was lucky to be introduced to a very talented musician named Christina Vane at the Station Inn (in the Gulch neighbourhood). Its an old school intimate music venue/listening house featuring bluegrass and Americana.
Other neighbourhoods to hit on foot - Edgefield (they have a great farmers market), Hillsboro and East End. Lots of cafes, boutiques, bookstores and vintage shops.
INSPIRATIONS
Local Business
As luck would have it there is a little slice of Provence within my Prince Edward County community by way of two French transplants - the very warm and welcoming François and Thierry, who have built the most beautiful barn where you can find handmade, truly French, housewares and linen clothing. Atelier du Presbytere (@atelierdupresbytere) is located in Milford and is a must visit - I wanted everything! I controlled myself and after much deliberation purchased two kitchen pieces - a pitcher and a pestle and mortar set (as seen in the Pesto video above). Its near impossible to pass up the stunning garden urns available outside or all the other items quite frankly! I will build my collection with more of their beautiful pieces over time.
Who I’m Following
- I have read all of Ruth’s books and loved each one. I also read her here on Substack each week and love listening to interviews with her (there are many podcasts that feature Ruth as a guest). She has such an interesting history and I love her insights into food. Find her at @ruth.reichl on Instagram.- Not only do I enjoy her musings on social @padmalakshmi, I am really loving her series, Taste the Nation. An exploration of American food and food history. You can also find Padma here on Substack.
What I’m Reading
I finished Alice Waters’ We Are What We Eat - which I mentioned last month as one I was starting. I wish it had continued on as I wanted more and more. Several times throughout the course of reading it I put it down and exclaimed out load how much I liked this book! Her writing echos many of my own thoughts and ideals but inspired some deeper thought and awareness too. If you have any particular deference to the true impact of food in our lives please pick up a copy.
As we are approaching full vegetable/fruit season, I pulled out my copy of Chef Jose Andrés’ Vegetables Unleashed. My tomato plants are about to droop heavily with fruit so I will make his Tomato Tart and share with you next month.
What I’m Listening Too
Dish I am a big fan of Angela Hartnett @angelacooking, and am devouring every episode of her Dish podcast with Nick Grimshaw. Its funny, educational and oh so British.
QUESTION OF THE MONTH
Is there a food you don’t like?
I certainly haven’t tried everything but I am typically pretty open - I can’t say I don’t like something if I won’t try it right? There are few things that I really dislike but some odd ones that stand out would be raw okra (love it cooked though!), milk chocolate (two sweet), kiwi fruit (its… meh), Nori seaweed ( I like sushi, but prefer just beautiful raw fish and rice), monkfish (perhaps I had it cooked poorly) and mussels (will eat them but its more about the broth for me).
I am a bit of a snack food snob - I am particular, perhaps annoyingly so and really don’t like eating at chain fast food or coffee places - it often just ends up tasting like salt and/or sugar - where is the actual distinctive flavour? I will save this rant for a future podcast episode.
NEXT MONTH
Many more recipes with seasonal ingredients
A tribute to Ferragosto
Travel Guide to Puglia
The podcast - my, what an endeavour. I assure you, it is coming. Attempting to execute a bi-weekly podcast in the Summer when many of my featured guests are at their busiest and/or away on vacation - not ideal. But it is happening and here is the intro!
EVERYTHING ON THE TABLE WITH ENID GRACE - A Podcast - COMING NEXT MONTH