The Time is Now... for Soup!
Soup puts the heart at ease, calms down the violence of hunger, eliminates the tension of the day, and awakens and refines the appetite.
- Escoffier
Happy New Year!
Although often expected and indeed cliché, a new year brings transistion and change. I hope that if this is true for you too, better things are ahead - more kindness, thoughtfulness and consideration in your life. I myself am taking a step back - in order to move forward. For those of you who read my September announcement about the closing of my beloved Piccolina, you are already aware that this is indeed a time of transition as well as a big change for all involved. However, I see this is a vital step forward for myself. For my health, my focus, my creativity and quite frankly, my pleasure.
After serving my community on Main St. for 12 years, it’s time to serve in a different way - a quieter way, but still with passion, attention and a connection to people.
I will be writing more, reading more, travelling more and creating more - including a new cooking studio. Details on the next phase of Enid Grace will be outlined in a very near future newsletter. Stay Tuned!
Another change - I have decided to offer more frequent newsletters instead of just one long edition each month. As inspiration sparks, I will write to you and share more ideas, recipes, tips, travel guides and more.
Much of the food I have been enjoying would mostly fall under the soup section of a recipe book. Typically soups and stews are favoured during the colder months and I couldn’t agree more with Escoffier’s poetic regard for soup.
I have provided a few of the soups I have been comforting myself with as well as a quick pasta, a hearty grain salad and a simple torte from Naples.
Finally…Books! Christmas was very plentiful for me and my library. I was gifted lots of great cookbooks and literature. I share some standouts below that you may enjoy as well.
LICUDRIA
This soup is a Calabrian recipe that combines Tropea onions (the red queen of Calabria), potato, chili, stale bread & Caciocavallo cheese. I added a touch of fennel seed (although not traditional).
Serves 6-8 people (leftovers are even better reheated the next day)
250ml olive oil (or lard, which is traditional)
4 lbs Tropea Onions (or shallots), peeled and thinly sliced
1 Tbsp Salt (potentially more needed at end of cooking; taste and adjust before serving)
2 tsp pepper
2 tsp fennel seed (optional)
1-2 tsp Peperoncino flakes (more or less depending on how much heat you like)
2 medium potatoes, washed and grated. Squeeze out the excess water using a kitchen towel
Splash of White Wine
3L Water OR 2L Vegetable or Chicken Stock and 1L Water
1 Small Loaf of Stale Bread, torn or cubed
250-300 grams Caciocavallo cheese, grated
In a large heavy bottomed pot heat the oil or lard over medium heat. Add the onions and stir to coat in fat.
Add the fennel seed, peperoncino, salt and pepper, stir. Cook over medium low heat for 25-30 minutes until the onions are a light golden brown.
Add the grated potatoes and stir. Cook for 5 minutes more. Deglaze the pot with a splash of white wine and use a wooden spoon to scrap the brown bits off the bottom of the pot.
Remove 1/3 of the mixture and puree. Return to pot and stir to combine. Add the water (or stock and water) and simmer for 15-20 minutes.
Taste for seasoning, adjust with salt/pepper (may not be necessary if you used stock instead of just water)
Preheat broiler. Ladle soup into oven safe bowls, top with bread pieces and caciocavallo. Place bowls on an oven tray and broil until golden brown and bubbly. Be careful, they will be very hot!
BISARRA
This is a simple Moroccan soup that I adore. It very closely resembles Maccu, a Sicilian broad bean soup as well as Fave e Cimi di Rapa which is less a soup and more a dried bean puree with rapini (it is one of my all time favourites and I will share the recipe next time). I suppose it could also be compared to a good old fashioned Canadian yellow pea soup, depending on preparation.
My version is traditional, however I add some harissa spiced red chard on top for texture and colour.
You can find dried fava beans in some bulk stores, specialty grocers as well as online.
Serves 6
2lbs Dry Split Fava Beans, picked over and rinsed if necessary
2.5L of Water (possibly more to thin, if necessary)
50ml Olive Oil
4 Cloves Garlic, Peeled and Chopped
2 Heaped tsp of Toasted Cumin Seed Ground (or Ground Cumin)
1 Tbsp Salt
1 Heaped tsp Black Pepper
2 Tbsp Olive Oil
1 Bunch Red Chard Roughly Chopped, Just the Leaves and Tender part of the Stalks
1-2 tsp Harissa (depending on taste)
In a large heavy pot place the beans, water, oil, garlic, cumin, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and cover, leaving a small vent. Reduce heat to low and cook for 35-40 minutes until the beans are soft. Add more water if the pot gets a little dry or thick.
Use an immersion blender to puree the soup. Add more water or a touch of stock to thin it out - depending on the consistency you prefer. I like a thick out still pourable version.
While your soup is cooking - In a large pan heat the remaining 2 Tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add in your chard and the harissa. Sauté for 4-5 minutes until the chard stems are tender.
Ladle the soup into bowls and top with a little bit of the spicy chard. Drizzle each bowl with a touch more harissa paste or some harissa or chili oil. A little spoonful of labneh or thick yoghurt on top is also a delicious addition. Serve with warm bread.
ROASTED CARROT & GRAIN SALAD WITH CUMIN, FENUGREEK & RAISINS
Serves 4
2 Tbsp Olive Oil + 2 Tbsp Olive Oil
Salt and Pepper
2 tsp Cumin Seeds
2 tsp Fenugreek
1.5 lbs Small Heirloom Carrots (Approximately 16) - Cleaned
1 Cup Raisins
1.5 Cups Mixed Grain (brown rice, quinoa, sorghum, millet, etc) - Cooked Ahead of Time
425 Grams Labneh
Fresh Mint & Cilantro
Fresh Tomatoes
Preheat oven to 375. Drizzle 2Tbsp of olive oil on a sheet pan and sprinkle the salt, pepper, cumin seeds and fenugreek over top. Toss the carrots around in the oil and spread into a single layer. Roast for approximately 20 minutes and then sprinkle the raisins over top. Roast for a further 5-8 minutes until the carrots are lightly burnished and a little wrinkled. Remove from oven and place carrots/raisins on a separate plate.
Heat a large skillet over medium high heat. Add in the remaining 2 Tbsp olive oil as well as any remaining oil and seeds from the roasting tray. Place the cooked grain mix on top and press into a single layer.
Cook for 5-6 minutes until the bottom of the grains are golden and crispy.
To plate:
Place the grains on the base of the plate. Top with a couple spoonfuls of labneh. Add 4-5 carrots on top. Sprinkle raisins over and garnish with fresh mint and cilantro. Finish with a drizzle of olive oil and some fresh sliced tomato on the side.
MAREMMA SOUP
Serves 4
While travelling through the Maremma region of Tuscany I was served this hearty soup on a small horse farm. It was exactly what I needed after a long ride through the countryside. The family served it with some simple bread but I suggest making the truffle cheese toast, also pictured below. I had this in hearty toast in Montalcino on a very thick piece of rustic bread with an amazing glass of Brunello.
75ml Olive Oil
1 Large Sweet Onion, Chopped
5 Stalks Celery, Chopped
4 Large Carrots, Chopped
4 Cloves Garlic, Finely Chopped
3 Fresh Bay Leaves
Salt and Pepper
4 Best Quality Fennel Sausage Links, Casing Removed
1 Butternut Squash, Peeled, Seeded and Chopped
1 Large Bunch of Cavolo Nero, Stems Cleaned and Roughly Chopped
Half of 1 Small Savoy Cabbage, Roughly Chopped
2 Cans Broad Beans, Fava Beans or Corona Beans - Drained
2.5 - 3L Water or Stock
Parmesan Rind - Optional
Fresh Parsley to Garnish
Heat a very large pot over medium high heat. Add in the olive oil, onion, celery, carrots, garlic, salt and pepper. Sauté until the onions are softened. Add in the sausage and break apart with a wooden spoon. Stir to combine and allow the sausage to cook until golden brown.
Add in the squash and sauté for a further 3-4 minutes. Add in the Cavolo Nero and Savoy. Stir to combine.
Tumble in the beans and add the liquid and the parmesan rind. Stir.
Increase heat to high and bring to a low boil. Reduce heat, partially cover and simmer for 35-40 minutes.
Remove the bay leaves and rind before serving. Serve up into bowls and garnish with fresh parsley and grated parmesan cheese.
To make the cheese toast - Drizzle olive oil on a thick slice of bread. Top with some truffle paste or spread on some truffle butter. Generously add some fontina or young soft pecorino. Broil for 3-4 minutes until golden, toasted and melty.
GRICIA
One of the big four Roman pastas - in my opinion, it’s the easiest to prepare. A few simple, best quality ingredients make for a delicious meal in minutes.
Serves 2
250 Grams Dry Pasta - Your Choice but Ideally a Long Thin Pasta Like Spaghetti
80-90 Grams Guanciale
60 Grams Pecorino, Grated
Fresh Cracked Black Pepper, 2 -3 good pinches
Cook pasta in a large pot of salted water, until just al dente.
While pasta is cooking, remove skin side of guanciale - but just the skin, not the fat. The fat is important! Cut into small pieces and cook in a dry pan over medium heat until golden brown and lightly crisp. Do not remove all the luscious rendered fat, it is the base of the sauce. Turn off heat while you wait for your pasta to finish cooking.
Turn the flame back on under the guanciale and quickly drag the hot pasta, along with some pasta water into the pan. Toss to coat in all that flavourful fat. Add a bit more pasta water if needed.
Turn off heat and add the cheese and pepper. Toss and stir to create a silken sauce with the fat, hot pasta water and cheese.
Serve immediately!
*Here is a tip if you happen to have any leftover… A Gricia Frittata. Crack a couple eggs and beat them with a fork. Mix in any leftover Gricia. Heat a skillet over high heat and add a few drizzles of olive oil. Pour in the egg/pasta mixture and cook until golden on the bottom, about 4 minutes. Flip the frittata and cook on the other side until golden. Done! Cut into wedges. Delicious hot or cold.
MIGLIACCIO DI SEMOLINO
Makes 1 x 8-inch Cake
This is a crustless Neapolitan semolina cake. Very easy to prepare and an excellent choice for a simple light dessert, just served with some fruit. Some versions use ricotta but I opt for a very early recipe that doesn’t include it.
200 Grams Fine Semolina
700 ml Water
Pinch of Salt
125 Grams White Sugar
3 Large Egg Yolks
1 Large Egg
Zest of 1 Large Lemon
1 tsp Best Quality Vanilla
100 ml Whole Fat Milk
To prepare the semolina - Bring the water to a low boil. Add the salt. Slowly pour in the semolina, whisking constantly to avoid lumps. Reduce the heat to low and keep stirring for 3-4 minutes.
Transfer the semolina to a large bowl to cool.
Once cooled, add in the sugar, yolks, the whole egg, zest, vanilla and milk. Stir until well combined.
Preheat oven to 375. Butter an 8 inch springform pan. Pour the mixture into the pan and level out with an offset spatula.
Bake for approximately 55-60 minutes until light golden brown on top.
Remove from the oven and allow to cool completely before slicing and serving.
Dust with powdered sugar and serve with fresh berries.
BOOKS
Our Lady of Perpetual Hunger, Lisa Marie Donovan. This book resonated in so many ways. A great read for non cooks, but if you have spent any time to a professional kitchen or have experience in starting a business in food/beverage this book will speak to you.
The Kitchen, John Ota. A glimpse into the kitchens of notables and the stories from within. This was a great curl up with a tea by the fire book… as well as a bit of inspiration.
Travels with Myself and Another: A Memoir, Martha Gellhorn. Martha is one of my heroes and is often overlooked for her impressive life’s work because of her connection to Hemingway. She was brilliant, funny and courageous.
Comfort Me With Apples - More Adventures at the Table, Ruth Reichl. This is the sequel to Tender at the Bone and continues on with Ruth’s beautiful written tales of food and love. It was the only one of her books that I had yet to read. As usual Ruth’s humour comes through and her stories from around the world always spark inspiration.
Claudia Roden’s Mediterranean, Claudia Roden. I have a lovely collection of Claudia’s books including Arabesque, The Book of Jewish Food, Med, The New Book of Middle Eastern Food, Coffee and The Food of Italy. All of these titles are worth owning and I hold Claudia in the highest esteem - she is a legend.
The Mile End Cookbook, Noah & Rae Bernamoff. The companion book to the delicious Mile End restaurant in Brooklyn (a must visit). All the Jewish comfort classics as well as tips for traditional preserving and a love for family “from scratch” recipes.
Comfort & Joy, Ravinder Bhogal. Creative vegetarian recipes with lots of flavour. Many of the recipes had my mouth watering and double checking that my spice cupboard was well stocked!