I am one of those people (rare among my family and friends) who loves the shift into the colder months. My mood changes significantly. I find joy in rest and in limiting the number of days that I am “full on”. The colder months feel more in tune with how I want to pace my life. Even with the holidays, and all the potential stress that can come with them, you can find much comfort in the simpler aspects that often get lost in the strain or responsibility of the “holiday season”. Apricity is a word that represents on of those simpler aspects. It’s an old word that I stow away until that first real wintery day; when stepping outside to the cold clean air, layered in a warm sweater with silence all around - the sun hits you differently. The warmth of a winter sun feels mildly cathartic - it balances everything for me.
There is an old Italian proverb - “ They who sing through the Summer must dance in the Winter” - I may not ‘sing’ much in the Summer (but for the harvest it brings), however I most certainly “dance” in the Winter. My dance is one of comfort, kindness, rest and the invigorating balance of cold with warmth.
With the holidays quickly approaching I have been thinking about both food and gift giving. My recipes lately have been a true mix. A Yorkshire Parkin tastes like the holidays to me, it’s akin to gingerbread but just different enough to be special and all its own. Italian sausage and cannellini beans - its rilassante. It reminds me of many cold winter afternoons in Northern Italy.
I love the ideas I associate with a New England Winter as well and as I have provided a small travel guide to Maine in this edition, I thought to include some recipes that I associate with New England. A Corn Pudding, Marlborough Pie, Blueberry Pie, New England Chop Suey and a Crab and Corn Chowder.
Next month I will provide some more “Holiday” recipes for you to try - the ones I must make every year to truly feel the comfort of the holiday season including both Italian and British/Canadian favourites.
As for gifts - I love the idea of giving and receiving food of course as well as the gift of time or an experience with someone I love but I would be lying to suggest that a beautiful present wasn’t happily received as well!
If you are looking for some experiences this year consider these - I wanted to enjoy the symphony so we ordered tickets to the Toronto Symphony Orchestra for their Holiday Pops concert. I can’t wait to get dressed up and enjoy the festive music. Also on my list was a mini trip to Montreal for the return of The Great Christmas Market. If you can’t travel to Europe for the incredible Christmas Markets, Montreal is a great option. Stay for the night (click here for some suggestions), bundle up and wander the lit-up market full of vendors, music and great food. Live theatre is also a great gift - If you are near Prince Edward County, The Regent Theatre is offering a new twist on the Dickens classic A Christmas Carol. Regent Theatre
I have put together a gift (present) guide for you - broken down into 3 parts: Food/Drink/Kitchen, Fashion and Home/Books. I receive your messages and questions about what products I like to use and where I like to shop so these little guides will shed some light on some of my favourite things. I hope you like them too!
*Please note that I have received no complimentary items from any of the businesses or brands noted in the gift guide. I am not an affiliate nor am I being paid - I just love these products and have purchased them with my own money.
THE FOOD
Italian Sausage & Cannellini Beans - Salsicce e Fagioli
One of my adoptive Nonna’s in Lombardia made this recipe for me many times during the colder months - I would come in from tending to the pigs and cows and she would have a pot full of Salsicce e Fagiloi waiting. I could smell it from the barn. She made hers with dried cannellini beans that she harvested from the garden and dried - by all means follow her lead but good quality jarred beans are an excellent substitute.
Serves 4-6
2 Healthy Splashes of Olive Oil
4 Best Quality Pork and Fennel Sausage or 6-8 Mini Pork Sausages
1 Medium Onion, Minced
2 Cloves of Garlic, Minced
Splash of Red Wine
Fresh Herbs of your choice - bay leaf, rosemary, sage
1 Small Can Tomatoes - Pomodorini or Chopped San Marzano
250ml Passata
2 Jars Cannellini Beans
Salt and Pepper
In a large heavy pot or skillet heat the oil over medium heat. Add the sausages and sear/brown on all sides. Add the onions and garlic, season with salt and pepper and sauté for a 3-4 minutes. Deglaze with a healthy splash of good red wine. Add in the herbs along with the tomatoes and passata - stir to combine and cook for 10 minutes over medium low heat. Add in the beans - stir, cover with a lid and simmer for a further 10 minutes.
Serve hot with a sprinkle of grated parmigiano and a drizzle of olive oil.
Yorkshire Parkin
I love all of the English, Irish and Scottish Christmas breads and puddings. Parkin is a favourite - so spicy and heady. It warms you right up and definitely tastes like the holidays, particularly when you wake up on a chilly day.
175 Grams All Purpose Flour
1 Tbsp Ground Ginger
1 tsp Ground Cinnamon
1/2 tsp All Spice
1/2 tsp Grated Nutmeg
1 tsp Baking Soda
1/2 tsp Salt
100 Grams Oats - Quick Oats Work Best (or you can use milled oats for a finer texture)
150 Grams Soft Unsalted Butter
125 Grams Dark Brown Sugar
50 mL Golden Syrup
75 mL Treacle (Use Molasses if you can’t find treacle)
100 mL Cream
1 Egg
25 Grams of Preserved Ginger in Syrup, Chopped or Ginger Jam
Preheat oven to 350. Grease and line an 8inch square baking dish.
Sift the flour, spices, baking soda and salt in a bowl. Add the oats, set bowl aside.
Heat the butter, sugar, syrup, treacle and cream in a small pot over medium heat until the sugar has dissolved. Set aside to cool slightly.
Beat the egg into the sugar mixture and stir in the chopped ginger or ginger jam. Gently add the sugar mixture to the dry mixture and stir to combine.
Pour the batter into the lined baking dish.
Bake for approximately 40 minutes until an inserted skewer comes out clean.
Leave to cool then enjoy with a hot cuppa or some scotch whiskey.
New England Favourites
Corn Pudding
This is a rich and comforting dish, served with a spiced ham its perfection! I have added the leeks here which are not particularly traditional to the New England versions I have had. My mum also made a version when I was a child called Scalloped Corn - this is my recipe which blends the, all together.
Serves 6-8
1 Large Leek, Cleaned, Halved Lengthwise and Sliced into Half Moons
2 Tbsp Unsalted Butter
100 Grams All Purpose Flour
3 tsp Salt
2 tsp Baking Powder
1 tsp White Pepper
1/2 tsp Freshly Ground Nutmeg
4 Large Eggs
900 mL Whole Milk or Half and Half
2 Tbsp White Sugar
1/2 Stick Butter, Melted
1 Cup Peeled and Finely Diced Yellow Flesh Potatoes
4 Cups Fresh or Frozen Corn Kernels
In a skillet over medium heat, sauté the leeks in the 2 Tbsp butter and a pinch of salt to season until soft - about 6-8 minutes. Set aside to cool.
Preheat oven to 400. Butter a 12x9 baking dish.
In a bowl whisk together the flour, baking powder, salt, white pepper and nutmeg. Set aside.
In a separate bowl whisk the eggs until frothy and slowly add in the milk or cream, whisking to combine. Add in the sugar and the melted butter.
Using a wooden spoon, stir in the diced potatoes, corn kernels and the cooled leeks. Gently stir in the flour mixture until just combined. Don’t over stir as you could make the pudding too stiff.
Pour into the prepared baking dish and bake for 45-50 minutes. The top should be nicely browned and have just a slight wiggle in the centre.
New England Chop Suey
When I was in Maine this summer, Warren and I attended a “Bean Supper”, a classic small town meal in a local church. I love to go to community events when I travel, meet the locals and try the simple food - often very old recipes. I didn’t know what New England Chop Suey was until it was piled on my plate by a lovely older gentlemen, smartly dressed in an argyle sweater vest. I said to him that it looked like my mum’s “Witches Brew Stew” or “Mum’s Goulash” - both names she used to describe what was essentially ground beef, macaroni noodles, bell peppers, tomatoes and some non descriptive spices. In Maine, and most of New England it seems, this same basic recipe is called Chop Suey. I asked the women who had prepared the Chop Suey for the recipe and I have combined her’s with the memories of what was in my mum’s version. This is basic, unfussy comfort food that often necessitates a second serving.
1 500 Gram Box Elbow Macaroni
2 Tbsp Olive Oil
1 Large Sweet Onion, Peeled and Finely Chopped
2-3 Cloves of Garlic, Peeled and Minced
1 lb Grass Fed Ground Beef
1 Green Bell Pepper, Seeded and Chopped
1 Red Bell Pepper, Seeded and Chopped
1 14oz Can Diced Tomatoes in Juice
1 Jar Passata
2 Tbsp Tomato Paste
1 tsp Dried Oregano
1 tsp Dried Basil
Salt and Pepper - 1 tsp Salt and 1 heaped tsp Pepper
2 Tsp Worcestershire Sauce
Chopped Fresh Parsley
Cook the macaroni in lots of salted water until al dente. Reserve about a cup of the cooking liquid. Drain the pasta and set aside.
In a heavy dutch oven heat the olive oil over medium heat and sauté the onions and garlic in a pinch of salt. Raise the heat to medium high and add in the ground beef. Stir and cook until browned and just a little caramelised. Add in the chopped peppers and stir to combine - cook for 2-3 minutes more.
Add in the diced tomatoes, passata and tomato paste. Stir. Sprinkle in the dried herbs and add the salt, pepper and Worcestershire sauce.
Bring to a low boil, cover with a lid and cook for 15-20 minutes. Add in the cooked macaroni and stir. If you like it a bit “soupier” add in the reserved pasta water. Cover and cook for 5 minutes more. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed.
Serve hot with a garnish of fresh parsley and a sprinkle of cheese if you like - my mum used cheddar.
Corn & Crab Chowder
Serves 6-8
2 Tbsp Unsalted Butter
1 Large Leek - Cleaned, Halved and Chopped
3 Stalks of Celery with Leaves - Halved and Chopped
4 Slices Smoked Bacon, Chopped
2 tsp Old Bay Seasoning
Salt and Pepper
2 Tbsp All Purpose Flour
2 Yellow Flesh Potatoes, Chopped (Peeled if Preferred)
2 Cups Fresh or Frozen Corn Kernels
1.5L Good Quality Chicken or Fish Stock
750mL Cream
1lb Fresh Crab Meat, Picked Over for Shell Fragments
Salt and Pepper to Season
Fresh Chives, Scallion or Celery Leaves to Garnish
In a large skillet or pot sauté the leeks, celery, bacon, Old Bay and salt and pepper in the butter over medium heat. Cook for 10-12 minutes until the aromatics are tender and the bacon is just getting crisp.
Sprinkle in the flour and stir to coat. Add in the chopped potatoes and the corn kernels. Stir. Raise the heat abit and add in the stock. Bring to a low boil and cook for 10-12 minutes until the potatoes are tender and the liquid has thickened.
Reduce heat to low. Add in the cream and the crab meat. Heat through for a further 6-8 minutes.
Adjust seasoning to taste. Serve and sprinkle with chives, scallion or celery leaves for garnish. Serve with hot buttered toast.
Marlborough Pie
Serves 6
1/2 Sweet Pie Crust, Blind Baked- See my recipe below
5 Firm Apples - Northern Spy or Honeycrisp, Peeled and Grated on a Box Grater (do not use the core or seeds)
3 Tbsp Fresh Lemon Juice
4 Tbsp Whiskey or Dry Sherry
2 Tbsp Salted Butter
100 Grams White Sugar
4 Large Eggs
375mL Heavy Cream
1 tsp Ground Cinnamon
1/4 tsp Freshly Grated Nutmeg
1/4 tsp Salt
Sweet Pastry
250 Grams All Purpose or “00” Flour
50 Grams White Sugar
Pinch of Salt
125 Grams Cold Unsalted Butter
2-3 Tbsp Cold Water (as needed)
Place the flour, sugar, salt and cold butter in a bowl and quickly blend with your fingers to break the butter into small pea-size pieces (this can be done in a food processor as well). Slowly add some cold water and blend until you have a dough that just holds together when squeezed. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap to form a flat disc and chill for at least an hour.
For this pie you only need half of the recipe. Roll out half into a circle and place in a pie tin/dish. Cut off the excess dough, crimp the edges and dock the bottom of the dough with a fork (prick little holes in it). Line the crust with a crumpled piece of parchment and fill with pie weights or dry beans. Bake for 8-10 minute at 400. Then remove the weights and parchment and bake for ma further 5 minutes.
For the Filling
In a bowl combine the grated apples (and their juice) with the lemon juice and whiskey or sherry. Set aside.
In a separate pot melt the butter with the sugar, spices and salt until just bubbling. Add in the apple mixture and bring to a low boil. Simmer for 10-15 minutes until the apples are just soft and most of the liquid has evaporated. Allow to cool for 15 minutes.
In another bowl combine the eggs with the cream. Add in the cooled apple mixture and stir to combine.
Pour mixture into the pre baked pie crust and bake for about 40 minutes at 350. The top will be just pale golden brown.
Served at room temperature.
Maine Blueberry Hand Pies
Makes 4 Individual Pies
1/2 Batch Sweet Pie Crust (see recipe above)
1 Pint Fresh Blueberries
2 Whole Star Anise (Optional)
Zest of 1 Lemon
4 Tbsp White Sugar
2 Tbsp Corn Starch
Egg Wash
Sprinkling Sugar
In a heavy bottomed pot add the blueberries, star anise, sugar and cornstarch with a splash of water. Cook over medium low for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally until the blueberries have broken down and the juices have thickened. Set aside to cool.
Roll out the dough into a rectangle and cut into four equal smaller rectangles.
Place a heaped tablespoon of the blueberry filling onto one end of the rectangle. Fold the tops over the bottom and press the sides closed. Use a fork to further pinch the edges together.
Brush each pie with egg wash and sprinkle with sugar. Cut a small “x” in the top to vent.
Bake at 375 for 25 - 30 minutes until just golden brown.
TRAVEL GUIDE
I had the pleasure of spending a few weeks in Kennebunkport Maine this past Summer. It was beyond idyllic - relaxing, calm and picturesque. As is typical of me, I went in search of “local” food. New England cuisine is essential (but certainly not exclusively) a mix of early American and British influence. Seafood and fish are exceptional in Maine but as is the agriculture. I dragged Warren to multiple farm stands and prodded him into road trips from the coast to the interior just to visit small farms and restaurants. Attending the Kennebunk Bean Supper was memorable - mostly because it reminded me of old recipes that my mum and Nanny used to make, or versions thereof.
Although I visited in the warmer months, Maine is certainly just as attractive in the winter months and well worth a visit despite the snow. Here are a few recommendations.
STAY
We rented a house which was a treat but there are many small bed and breakfasts as well as hotels.
The Colony Hotel - Historic hotel directly on the beach
White Barn Inn - Truly luxurious hotel featuring a James Beard Award winning restaurant
The Inn at English Meadows - Beautiful and cozy bed and breakfast close to the seaside offering an exceptional breakfast
EAT
The Clam Shack - It’s a must! Fried seafood and lemonade right in the Port
Boulangerie (A Proper Bakery) - The best espresso and fantastic fresh baked goods including classic fresh pastry as well as pies, quiche, etc.
Musette - A quaint and delicious ‘farm to table” eatery in Cape Porpoise
Mabels - Well loved seafood spot that feels quintessentially Maine
Cape Porpoise Kitchen - A fine foods shop with excellent ready to serve fresh menu items, local groceries and a superb and well priced wine cellar.
Scales - Located in lovely Portland, we enjoyed the most beautiful fresh seafood and fish dinner. Definitely experience the Griddled Brown Bread, Crab Fritters, Stilton Salad, Halibut and the Seared Scallops
The Lost Kitchen - Get your postcards in now for the 2024 season! Erin French’s gorgeous restaurant and market is seasonal and a bit of a drive from the coast but very much worth it!
“Bean Supper” - Keep your eyes peeled for signs for a bean supper - usually at churches or community halls
SHOP
Of course Maine is home to LLBean, but aside from a trip to the flagship store in Freeport there are many small businesses along the coast and in the port that are worth a visit.
The Kennebunk Farmers Market - Seasonal but when open offers a plethora of local produce and baked goods. The artisan market is directly across the street.
Farm + Table - Local shop open year round
Snug Harbour Farm - Beautiful farm with a well stocked greenhouse and shop - I wanted everything!
Dock Square Emporium - Excellent shop for kitchenware, cookbooks and lovely puzzles ( I bought two!)
Ireland on the Square - Located right in the port this shop offers a beautiful collection of curated items from Ireland and Scotland
Fine Print Books - I love a small town bookstore and we both filled our boots with a selection from this tiny shop right in the port
HOLIDAY GIFT GUIDE
Part 1
Food/Drink/Kitchen
I have a love of vintage French and Italian pots, pans and brasiers. I look for them at every antique shop and estate sale I encounter and also have a few friends who are
’pickers” always on the lookout for a specific piece. That said, if you looking to start a collection of basics with new items or gift them to a loved one I suggest the items below. These are investment pieces but with care will last you a lifetime - I am aways saving up to add new pieces to my kitchen as well as the vintage. What is important for items like Le Creuset, Staub, Languiole, etc. is that they are marked with the made in France imprint. This is true for Italian brands as well. Price is often an indicator of where it was made. Food and drink is always a good choice for a gift - homemade is lovely but if that's not quite your style try a beautiful bottle of olive oil, wine or local cheese. When in doubt a wrapped panettone is always a success.
Le Creuset Stock Pot - Excellent for making broths and stock, soups, boils and more. Available at Zest Kitchen Shop.
Le Creuset Skillet - Solid everyday work horse pan that can be used on the stovetop or in the oven. Available at Zest Kitchen Shop
All Clad 10” Pan with Lid - Chef grade steel pan that is ideal for sautéing, searing and browning. Available at Zest Kitchen Shop
Dansk Kobenstyle 2Qt Saucepan - Ideal for sauces and reheating. Dansk.com
Dansk Kobenstyle Butter Warmer - I love this for warming milk and yes, melting butter. Also great for single serving reheating. Dansk.com
Staub Dutch Oven - Various Sizes. Another absolute work horse for everything from soups, stews, roasts, risottos, ragu’s, etc. Zwilling.com
Staub Artichoke 3L - I love this dramatic server for dinner parties. Perfect for keeping side dishes or soup warm. Available in a smaller size as well for individual service. Zwilling.com
Laguiole Flatware - I am a longtime fan of this brand for steak knives, cheese knives and spreaders. So it was a simple choice to opt for the complete cutlery set. Available at Crate and Barrel Canada
Bialetti Moka Pot - The Italian standard in home espresso service. Easy to use and timeless. Available at Zest Kitchen Shop
Alessi Plissé Kettle - Another classic that is beauty meets simplicity. Available at Maison Lipari
Atelier du Presbytere French Pottery - I adore this local business and have to manage myself when inside the beautiful barn shop. I have the water pitcher, bowls and pestle and mortar and use them often. Atelier Du Presbytere
Lighthall Wine and Cheese - Excellent local cheese from here in Prince Edward County. Their Tête Carrée is amazing as is the wine. Serve the delicious cheese with their Progression. Lighthall Vineyards
Olio ROI Olive Oil - I spent time at this incredible farm in Liguria and fell in love with their oil and olives. You can purchase via their website or order from Nonna’s Pantry. Olioroi
The Living Vine Wine - Excellent importer of organic and natural wines. I have purchased heavily from their Italian wine and digestif catalogue . Purchase online and join the club. The Living Vine
Panettone - A must for the holidays! Whether you like panettone or pandora just make sure its a good one! An excellent recommendation is Borgo di Medici, Baratti e Milano or Loison.
Part 2 and 3 of the Gift Guide Coming Next Week!
READING
I went right from Charlotte Grays’ book about Jennie Jerome and Sara Delano to Betty Boyd Carolis’ First Ladies, chronicling the lives of the many transformative women who have held this ever changing and important position.
Also enjoying Notes from a Small Kitchen by Debora Robertson. It’s a lovely read that I pick up and put down when I have time - lots of recipe inspiration!
WATCHING
I am now completely caught up on Slow Horses (on Apple). I will consume all British/Irish/Scottish content and this series supports my favour. It is incredibly captivating with Gary Oldman in perhaps his best role and a supporting cast that is equally fantastic. Season three starts imminently.
FOLLOWING
I took a bit of break from Instagram to focus on reading in my downtime, however as its the time of year for calm and coziness and since I pay some homage to Maine/New England this month - I enjoy the photos/inspirations shared by Yankee Magazine
SHOPPING LOCAL
It is certainly easy to source kitchenware online but a visit to a local kitchen store is the equivalent to a child in a chocolate store for me. I am so lucky to have Zest Kitchen Shop locally. They offer a wide range of products including items you didn’t even know you needed. Top end brands at fair price points as well as local products, books and…. they will also sharpen your kitchen knives! Such a good routine to get into as sharp knives are essential in the kitchen. My most recent purchase were these beautiful La Rochelle Bee tumblers.
Mmmm the inclusion of the Parkin recipe brings back wonderful memories of being a young girl growing up in Yorkshire. I will definitely be trying out this recipe over the holidays and enjoying it along with a good read by the fireplace.